Knowledge Base - How To:- Replace a Steering Rack Gaitor/Boot

You need to be fairly competent with a spanner to carry out this task.

You will be doing this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any damage, injury or death to you, your car, any tools or anything/anyone involved while undertaking this task. I will also not be responsible for your tracking being out due to the repair, and excessive wear on your tyres due to this.

I would advise you to familiarise yourself with the jacking points on the car and the parts of the car involved before starting.

Get your tracking adjusted after the task.



Tools needed:

* Jack
* Axle stands
* Torque wrench
* Extension bar
* Sockets: 19mm (depending on wheel nut size), 17mm
* Ratchet
* Pliers
* Copper-head hammer
* Small tapping hammer
* Inspection light
* 2x 19mm and 1x 14mm open ended spanners

I also recommend a small container to put the bolts and bits in so you don't lose them.

Parts needed:

* New steering rack gaiter (I got mine from Camskill, pair for less than 5)
* Fixing cables (comes with the gaiters)
* New split pin
* Cable ties
* Copper grease
* LM grease
* WD40.

1. Jack up your car and USE a axle stand in an appropriate place that won't get in your way. Do not rely on just the jack !
2. Remove your wheel.
3. Remove the split pin from the castellated nut that holds the track rod end.
4. Remove the castellated nut (17mm).
5. Using the copper hammer gently tap the top of the thread from the track rod end and it will pop out below.
6. Rotate the hub away from your working space as this will give you vital working space.
7. Measure or mark the position of the lock nut relative to the track rod (i.e. from the end of the thread to the lock nut) this will enable you to put it back in the same position, which will keep your tracking approximately correct
8. Using the 2 x 19mm spanners loosen off the locking nut away from the track rod end.
9. Use the 14mm and a 19mm spanner (14mm on the steering rack and the 19mm on the track rod end) turning in opposite directions and this will loosen off the track rod end.
10. Using the 14mm and a 19mm spanners again, remove the locking nut.
11. Depending on if your old gaiter is the original or not you may have different fixings, remove the one closest too you and then the one at the back (this will be a metal clamp and may take a struggle to remove, I ended up cutting away the old gaiter so that I can get to the clamp easier).
12. Now remove the gaiter (or what is left of it)
13. Use some LM grease to lube up the inside of the new gaiter, this will make it a bit easier to fit and stop any annoying squeaking.
14. Put the new gaiter on and firstly clamp the far fixing first, then the nearest part of the gaiter will sit in a small seating point. Fix it with your new fixings.
15. Clean up the thread of the track rod, locking nut and track rod end. Use some copper grease on the threads
16. Fit the locking nut and then fit the track rod end.
17. Using the 2 x 19mm spanners tighten the nut against the track rod end.
18. Clean the thread on the track rod end and the castellated nut, fit the track rod end into the slot and fit the castellated nut, again use some copper grease.
19. Fit the new split pin and bend the ends to secure it.
20. Check all fixings are tight and fit your wheel back on.
21. Tighten wheel nuts, remove axle stands and lower jack.
22. When the car is on the ground tighten the wheel nuts to the recommended torque settings.
23. Go to a good and recommended specialist to get your tracking sorted.

Dean Weller

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