Strange central/remote locking issue.

dazmatic · Post by **dazmatic** » 03/10/13 17:57

Hi there
First time poster. The name Is Nigel. Im a new mr2 owner and loving it. Im a trained mechanical maintenance engineer with an engineering degree.

I have an import jap 93 mr2 auto mk2. The car doesnt have remote locking, only on the key which is a nuisance and really dont want to snap the key as the car is getting on.

Ive bought a remote locking kit on ebay. The outputs are relays which for the mr2 negative locking is ideal.

Ive followed the instructions on the site and installed the module to the black and black/yellow wires under the drivers trim. When the door is open, the remote will lock and unlock the doors. When the door is closed the remote will lock but not unlock the door but can still unlock on the key.

Its very strange indeed. Ive tested it with the door open by pressing the courtesy switch on the door. With the switch open I can lock and unlock the doors, if I press the switch, after 5 seconds I can lock but not unlock so it seems the issue only happens when the door is closed, the same happens with the door switch next to the window buttons.

Only if I unlock with the key will it unlock with the door closed. With the door open itll operate with they key, remote and door switch. With the key in the ignition and on, itll unlock under the remote and door switch.

Its driving me barmy! It seems that I can only unloco from the key even though Ive wired it up to the key switch.

Any ideas??

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 03/10/13 18:20

Edit: See 'Final Solution at the end of this thread.
**********************************
Hi, from the instructions I received when fitting my alarm/remote locking (I don't have an import though):

CDL Type Multipoint Negative
Lock : THIN BLACK WIRE O/S/F DOOR HARNESS OR AT THE N/S KICKWELL
Unlock: THIN BLACK/YELLOW WIRE AT O/S/F DOOR HARNESS. SEE SPECIAL NOTES *. OR AT THE N/S KICKWELL

* IMPORT MODELS UNLOCK WIRE NEEDS DIVIDING BY 2 DIODES - 1 DIODE TO THE NORMAL UNLOCK WIRE AND 1 DIODE TO EITHER A BLUE/YELLOW WIRE OR A RED/YELLOW WIRE AT CDL RELAY.

Edit. Sorry not shouting I just copied & pasted as it was.

*See later in this thread for an easier solution.

dazmatic · Post by **dazmatic** » 04/10/13 13:45

Hello Stu, thanks ever so much for your response.

I thought I would elaborate on what it was I had to install and how for an import MR2.
Firstly, this is the kit that I bought below, comes with 2 remotes and everything you need to get setup.
Includes the ability to lock/unlock/flashing hazard car park locator/turn flashing hazards off and a boot unlocker by holding the unlock button which can't be used on the MR2 as it is cable actuated.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360596016867? ... 1439.l2649

Initially I followed the instructions here (http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-know ... bartid=250) but only to find that with the door closed the car would lock but not unlock.

Thanks for Stu for pointing out that the imports are slightly different.

For the unlock mechanism to work correctly you need to connect the think black/yellow wire to the device but also another wire. Stu mentioned the blue and yellow wire but that is on the passenger side whilst I was installing on the drivers side, so I needed the Blue/orange wire which is right next to the black/yellow.

You need to solder a diode (1A rating is fine) to each wire so that it looks like this:

black/yellow stripe -----I>|-----\
..................................... White/black wire on the remote unit
blue/orange stripe-----I>|-----/

the ---I>|---- is the diode you need to install.

For the hazard flash, the device outputs a 12V signal of up to 15A to drive the indicators directly on a brown cable. Unfortunately, you can't simply hook up the cable because the indicators work on separate circuits.

Following the guide above, you need the green/black wire and the green/yellow wire located in the main harness under the steering wheel column and a couple of high power diodes. I used 3A diodes which seem to have worked fine for me and to wire in would look something like this.

............................../-----I>|----- green/yellow
brown cable from remote
..............................\-----I>|----- green/black

By installing it like that with a couple of diodes means the remote unit can operate the hazards as a lock/unlock indicator but also means that the indicators still work independent of each other.

I do hope that someone else may find this information as useful as me and maybe perhaps be worthwhile adding to the knowledge base for others to find easier.

Cheers!

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 05/10/13 8:13

Well done for sorting it Nigel and your write up should help others. Happy to help as that's what this club is all about.

Hopefully you'll stick around. Start an introduction thread and tell us a bit about yourself and your car.

Stu

acf8181 · Post by **acf8181** » 05/01/15 1:29

dazmatic wrote: For the unlock mechanism to work correctly you need to connect the think black/yellow wire to the device but also another wire. Stu mentioned the blue and yellow wire but that is on the passenger side whilst I was installing on the drivers side, so I needed the Blue/orange wire which is right next to the black/yellow.

You need to solder a diode (1A rating is fine) to each wire so that it looks like this:

black/yellow stripe -----I>|-----\
..................................... White/black wire on the remote unit
blue/orange stripe-----I>|-----/

the ---I>|---- is the diode you need to install.

Just so i understanding this correctly, the two from car wires are spliced together (with a diode in line in each one) to the single wire from the unit?

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 05/01/15 4:37

What you are doing is splitting the unlock signal wire from the remote unit in two effectively with a diode (->|) on each of the 2 wires that then go to the thin black/yellow wire and the other control wire (e.g. blue/orange).

Unit--+--->|-------black/yellow
+--->|----blue/orange

(+ splice/join wires)

Edit: See later in the thread for an easier sloution!

acf8181 · Post by **acf8181** » 05/01/15 18:20

Cool, like this effectively....

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 05/01/15 19:50

Not really sure what that diagram is.

Here's my effort:

From my earlier post:

Unlock: THIN BLACK/YELLOW WIRE AT O/S/F DOOR HARNESS. SEE SPECIAL NOTES *. OR AT THE N/S KICKWELL

* IMPORT MODELS UNLOCK WIRE NEEDS DIVIDING BY 2 DIODES - 1 DIODE TO THE NORMAL UNLOCK WIRE AND 1 DIODE TO EITHER A BLUE/YELLOW WIRE OR A RED/YELLOW WIRE AT CDL RELAY. (Or the Blue/Orange) wire Nigel mentioned.

It really is much simpler than you think.

Edit: apparently it works for some people without the diodes. Just split the unlock wire if the 2 wire method doesn't work. Something to do with lock sensing on an import. Not having an import at the moment I can't verify this.

acf8181 · Post by **acf8181** » 10/01/15 16:39

Diodes in and all working perfectly!!

Though i did put the ring on the diode towards the alarm system, where as your diagram i read as the other way round.

Cheers for the help!

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 10/01/15 17:00

Glad it's working correctly. Not sure how the diode should be the other way as I would have thought that the signal needs to go to the unlock wires but not be able to come back. Oh well, that was just my understanding.

Edit: see above. Diodes may not even be required.

madbasshunter · Post by **madbasshunter** » 27/02/15 13:48

Hi Nigel I find this subject very interesting in your first post you said
"Ive followed the instructions on the site and installed the module to the black and black/yellow wires under the drivers trim. When the door is open, the remote will lock and unlock the doors. When the door is closed the remote will lock but not unlock the door but can still unlock on the key."

Can you tell me which pair of black and black/yellow wires you used?
As I think you used the pair nearest the door by the orange/blue wire?

Not the pair at the other end of the plug

Thanks

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 01/07/15 14:18

Resurrecting an old thread as I currently have a '94 Turbo to try and get working. It's currently wired to the black & black/yellow wires (nearest the door) on the driver's side for the remote locking.

It locks on the fob but only unlocks on the key. This issue seems to come up time and time again and gets differing views.

I decided to have a read of the wiring diagram today and think I've discovered a possible explanation.

Following my highlighted wires in the circuit it seems that only one of the unlock wires (black/yellow) passes through something called 'double operation circuit).

Now I assume this is the driver's side as it's a U.S. Wiring diagram I think. If not my theory falls at the first hurdle. I have a hunch that this explains why some people like to use the diode method and split the unlock wire to get around this 'double operation curcuit' whilst others don't need to. Are they using the passenger side? UK cars I assume don't have this double operation circuit so present no problem using either side.

I read elsewhere on the interweb about needing this double pulsing to unlock but not lock. I like a logical explanation so fingers crossed.

I will try this theory out tomorrow!

stuMR2lee · Post by **stuMR2lee** » 01/07/15 18:24

Couldn't wait until tomorrow.

Despite my hours of research all I really needed to do was wire in the alarm unlock wire to the Black/Yellow wire and the lock wire to the Black wire.

The difference though was I did this at the Door Control Relay/ECU under the steering wheel area and not at the kick panel plug.

The result being it works! No diodes required:). Alarm and Remote locking functioning as it should.

rainen · Post by **rainen** » 30/07/15 14:14

Hi Stu,

I've just bought one of these remotes to install into my G-Limited. Looking at the remote control wiring diagram i assume you need to use the "negative trigger" circuit. So red and black are connected to power and earth on the remote. For the door function remote control yellow and yellow/black are earthed. You then splice the white wire into the MR2 black wire at the door control ECU and the white/black splice into the Black/Yellow at the door control ECU. This then provides an earth path just as the key does for each of the operations. Does that sound about right to you??

Nigel (not the nigel from the original start of this thread!).

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