Strange central/remote locking issue.

[stuMR2lee]

Sounds about right Nigel although all aftermarket units may have different wire colours.

I take it you've found the door control relay up under the panel above the drivers knee area.

No diodes are required either. Very simple install.

[rainen]

Thanks. Yes found the ECU. Hopefully get to wire it up tomorrow and check it out. Will post result. You are right in that it's a simple install.

Nigel

[stuMR2lee]

Good luck. I've repaired several so called 'professional' alarm/central locking installs recently that didn't work properly.

So much mis-information on the web.

Once you realise how simple it is then they are fairly straightforward to sort out. Much like the active sound system.

[rainen]

Hi Stu,

Just want to sound this out on you. My DL ECU connector looks just like yours. So you have wires on pins 10, 11 & 12. Those on 10 & 11 continuity test back to the two wires for the door lock control switch. Now according to the wiring diagram pin 12 is the lock from the door key. However pins 9 and 13 which are supposed to be the key unlock are not present in the wiring block? Now I can splice into 10 and 11 with the remote control which would give me the same earthing operation as operating the door switch from within the car. I'm just curious as to how the key does the unlock. It works fine on mine from the drivers door so something is connected somewhere. Just don't want to pull the door card off to find the unlock key wire. Any idea how its done?

Nigel

[stuMR2lee]

Can't really add anything more than the previous posts/pictures/diagrams.

I'm no electrician. However, if you have the black & black/yellow wires at the door control ECU Orange plug then temporally insert your lock/unlock wires in behind the relevant pins and check it works.

Is yours an import? If not you can just use the same coloured wires down by the kickwell.

[rainen]

OK no problem. Yes mines an import. Will test using pins 10 and 11 which are black and black and yellow. They should work fine as these are the lock and unlock pins from the door switch, so earthing them through the remote until should give the same operation. I'll work out what the key does next time I take the door card off to continuity test the wiring from that micro switch.

[stuMR2lee]

Ok. See if you can follow my multi-coloured diagram from an earlier post to try and shed some light.

[rainen]

All wired in and working great. Did not bother working out why the Door Lock ECU does not have any wires to match the wiring diagram (I have the same one as your colured one Stu) on PINS 9 and 13. I just spliced into PINS 10 and 11 which are the lock/unlock for the door lock control switch in the drivers arm rest. Wired the remote up for negative trigger. So you only have to make a few connections and your done (4 in total, Power, Earth (3 wires), Lock Wire, Unlock Wire).

Even put in a UK rear fog light switch while I had the panel off to match the front one!

[stuMR2lee]

Good work Nigel. Enjoy your new remote locking:).

[turbotrucker]

Where did you guys wire your earth and power connections please?


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[stuMR2lee]

Earth is anywhere on the car body.

12v permanent is on the same plug as the door locking wires - possibly white & blue wire but check with a multimeter

[turbotrucker]

Thanks very much, remote locking installed[emoji16] used the bolt that holds the frunk release for the earth, and the black/red wire on the connector block under the steering column for my power.
Real pleased now, my key was getting worn down[emoji15] suppose 24 years unlocking the door and using ignition will do that[emoji16]


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[stuMR2lee]

**Final Solution**

Right just to summarise this thread.

It's the Negative Trigger instructions you need to follow.

Find your 'Door Control Relay' by removing the plastic panel under the steering wheel/above where the drivers feet go.

Door Control Relay looks like this (Green or Yellow with Orange plug):


Then find the black (lock) and black/yellow (unlock) wires. Pins 10 & 11 on the orange plug). Splice your relevant lock/unlock wires from your new unit to these.

Now find permanent +12v source on this same plug (use a multimeter to confirm). Tap into this wire for your power. Possibly pin 12 but do check this.

Earth/Ground will be any suitable bolt on the car body.

If you want the indicators to flash you can tap into the green/black and green/yellow wires on the plug under the steering wheel. You will need a suitable diode on each wire for this. Often they come pre-installed with your remote locking kit.

For the hazard flash, the device outputs a 12V signal of up to 15A to drive the indicators directly on a wire (see your insturctions for which wires). Unfortunately, you can't simply hook up the wire because the indicators work on separate circuits. You need the green/black wire and the green/yellow wire located in the main harness under the steering wheel column and a couple of high power diodes. I used 3A diodes which seem to have worked fine and to wire in would look something like this.

Signal from unit ->I- Green/Black Wire
Signal Wire from unit ->I- Green/Yellow Wire

By installing it like that with a couple of diodes means the remote unit can operate the hazards as a lock/unlock indicator but also means that the indicators still work independent of each other.

[madbasshunter]

I have to agree that Stu's method above works and is the best and easiest way