A) Removing the Rev1/2 spoiler without destroying the lid/wings
B) Curing any leaks I may find after removal ...
I took matters into my own hands and wrote a little How-To
How-To: Remove your Rev1/2 spoiler and fix all those lovely leakage problems, all in one go !
This procedure will take around 2hrs and you will need the following tools/materials:
Tools
1x 10mm Socket + Extension bar and ratchet
1x Small terminal screw driver (flat head)
1x Large flat head screw driver
1x Large(ish) Phillips head screw driver
1x Roll of masking tape
1x Cardboard box
Materials
Boot Lid
4x 6mm Membrane grommets (Halfrauds, or similar)
2x 3mm Membrane grommets (Halfrauds, or similar)
2x 4mm Zinc coated self tapping screws (Or around that size!)
Wing Mounted Sections (Per side)
2x 6mm Membrane grommets (Halfrauds, or similar)
2x 4mm Membrane grommets (Halfrauds, or similar)
Misc
1x Large amount of enthusiasm
1x Liquid Metal (You might not need this, have a read and see)
Lets start !
1) Firstly, remove your boot lining. This is pretty easy to do, just push the centre of the 8 or so securing clips, pull out and put in a safe place
2) Remove the boot lining (not forgetting to disconnect the boot light)
3) Remove the 6x 10mm nuts securing the centre section of your boot spoiler. These nuts are hilighted in the picture below:
4) Remove the 2x securing screws (near where the spoiler thins out towards the engine lid) these will have probably rusted to hell so snap them if necessary.
5) Shut the boot
6) You will find that the centre section of the spoiler is still held in with two clips, you will need to pull the spoiler very gently away from the boot lid to shift these. If you yank at the spoiler you will rip these clips off so be gentle
(If you still have no idea what I mean see the picture below)7) Once removed you should be left with something like this ...
Note: The two clips hilighted in red are the bits I was talking about in step 6.
8) Now comes the fun part of removing of the wing mounted sections of the spoiler. Essentially each section is held on with 2x 10mm nuts and a clip. You will need a long reach socket set to get these off if you don't wan't to be swearing for most of this job.
Once you have removed the nuts the end nearest your rear quarter window will be held in with a plastic clip. Lever this off very gently with a screwdriver (be sure to cover the wing with carboard or similar so you don't damage the wing)
9)Complete the above for the next side as it is the same ... Once removed you should be left with something like this ..
10) Give the whole lot a clean (all be it rather badly if you are me) and get ready for the next bit ...
11) Drill out any snapped screws ...
Curing those leaks and re-assembly
The whole reason I find myself doing this job (again) is that I sealed the boot and associated bolts with bathroom sealant. Needless to say it was pretty crap and didn't last that long. So I modified my approach slightly.
Firstly, I used grommets, these fit the holes perfectly and once compressed would need a pretty hefty amount of water pressure to get past them. The other benefit is this isn't as messy as using sealer.
Secondly, I noticed that one of my boot welds had lost some sealant and this was more than likely where the water was coming from. I used sealant here too but it didn't last so I brought some liquid metal to seal the weld. This stuff is great, I've used it countless times before and it has never let me down.
Righty then with that in mind we'll get on shall we
1) Take the 4x 6mm grommets and put these in 4x holes nearest the badges on your spoiler.
2) Take the 2x 4mm grommets and put these in the 2x holes nearest the bulkhead (See the photo below if your unsure)
3) Use a shrap knife or similar to pierce these grommets and make a relativly large hole big enough for the bolt to pass through (If you don't do this bit the bolt will simply push the washer out of the hole, resulting in my case in a girly strop ...)
4) Now shut the boot lid. Grab the boot spoiler and slowly offer this up to your newly grommet filled holes. Push the bolts through slowly ensuring the grommets are not pushed into the boot. Don't be alarmed if the spoiler does not sit 100% flush with the boot lid.
5) Open the boot, attach all 6 bolts and tighten accordingly (This will bring the spoiler back down to sit flush with the bootlid)
6) All that should remain is the two holes the self tapping screws once sat. Replace these with the two new zinc coated screws and your good to go !
Ok so you've sealed your boot spoiler. Now moving onto the wing mounted bits
Note: My aerial was not leaking but I had previously suffered from a clogged aerial drain pipe which did cause a leak issue. If you have this issue simply disassemble the aerial and clean the pipe section and replace. If your aerial is leaking from the hole in which the aerial comes out of the body work you will need to purchase a large rubber grommet from probably Maplin or RS Components to stop the leak. Appologies, I don't know what size you will need !
Anyway ... I digress
1) In the hole nearest the rear quarter glass insert another 6mm grommet. In the hole nearest the rear lights insert one of the 4mm grommets.
2) Cut/Bodge as your did for the boot spoiler.
3) Offer up the wing mounted section to your new grommet filed holes
4) Slowly push the wing mounted section into the holes
5) Gently push the mounting clip home (The bit nearest the rear quarter glass)
6) Again the wing mounted section will not sit flush immediatly, simply tighten the 2x 10mm fixing nuts which will bring the rest of the spoiler in line.
7) Repeat for the other side and admire your handy work ...
Useful tips
I am reasonably sure that a majority of my leaks are/were coming from a weld which had lost nearly all of its sealent. Rather than seal the weld with the usual window type sealent I chose to use liquid metal. I've had a large amount of success with this stuff and it seems to be more robust than standard house hold sealent.
The area I am talking about is here (please excuse the poor pictures) ...
And another shot for good measure ...
I simply loaded the area with liquid metal which set in around 15 minutes providing an excellant seal.
Anyway, thats about it, I hope that helped. Maybe it will reduce the pain others have to go through in order to ensure there dinner doesn't end up flooded
Cheers,
- Jamie
