ignition timing and fault codes

[sirRhodes]

Hello again everybody, looks like I spoke too soon on my last post :(

Basically today I set about doing the ignition timing and so left the engine running got it warmed up and then tried started with the timing, I think it is worth noting that when the engine is cold it idles around 1000rpm but when it is warm it is around 500rpm!
I shorted the two terminals and checked the ignition as per the instructions from a guide and I found that the notches were miles away from the pin, I then hooked the timing light up to the other three ht leads (in case I had the wrong one) but of course the others were way off too, once again if I tried turning it one way towards the passengers side but that makes it worse but as I said before it will not turn any more to the drivers side so is there any other way to alter the ignition or is it as just not going any further??
Should I at least try doing the ignition when it is cold

Then I checked the codes, I got 2 and 7 which is pressure sensor signal, i am hoping that is oil pressure as that wire is simply just not plugged in, and then 7 is tps, so is that just that I will be needing a new sensor or is it a bad connection?

I then took the 7.5A am2 fuse out, now I'm guessing that 7.5A just means that it should be 7.5 amps and say 7.5 on top?? if that is the case no because whoopdeefucking doo it has a 30A fuse in it
I then stupidly put it back to see if the codes were still there, the deafening aftermarket alarm made me jump 10ft in the air and now there is nothing, unless I just didn't leave the fuse in long enough (if the ECU needs time to start back up) but it doesn't look like it wants to do anythything.

So yeah any ideas on what exactly is going on in my mr2?

[jimi]

You need to sort your warm idle (should be 800/900 rpm) Have a read of this thread http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/40/120898.html I'd say you have the same problem with a sticking waxstat.
There's no oil pressure signal to the ECU, code 2 is the vacuum sensor (MAP sensor) car won't run worth a "censored" if that is faulty, same with code 7, won't run properly if the TPS is faulty, it may just be needing setup correctly. There's a procedure in the BGB for checking the MAP sensor and checking and setting the TPS.

[sirRhodes]

ah, I read about a warm idle screw? I remember a while back when the cold idle was right down low too (replacing the map sensor sorted that out) I was messing with what I thought was a cold idle valve so I might of been messing with the warm idle screw and I then messed it up for now.

Ah it may be that code 2 was from a while back when the old map sensor was installed but it was just stored
Alright I'll have a look through and see what I can find

Cheers

[jimi]

Disconnecting the battery for 5 mins should clear any historical error codes. Any that come back are valid (i.e. there's still a fault)

[sirRhodes]

Hi, I went to check the tps today, the fully closed and fully open checks were fine but then the checks using the feeler gauge flicked up with a resistance but then went back to 1, I think a mate said a while back that if it doesn't hold the resistance it is bad??
Also when using the feeler gauge do I put it closer to the closed side if that makes sense? E.G. with the 0.35mm that essentially means that the throttle is kind of open by 0.35mm?