Turbo runnin bad :-(

[Mattr6288]

Hello!!
Iv jst brought myself a rev2 turbo and its running really badly,
Under 3000 rpm its pretty much ok apart from idles a bit slow but over 3k as turbo starts whistling it bogs down and misfires but its had new leads,plugs, cap and arm

Mil light is on but cant seem to get any fault codes??
Also when i take the key out the abs light, handbrake lighr, pas and heater blower are still on?
Also when it was spluttering the mil light was sometimes flickering ??

I have a spare afm but is really stiff, with this one plugged in or original plugged in or neither its makes no difference
And when i rev it on the spot i get black smoke and it smells REALLY rich!

Thanks in advance any advice will be greatly appreciated, i loved my old turbo and just want this running asap!!

[jimGTS]

sounds like knock sensor is blown.

which isnt a good sign.

why buy a car with immediate issues that you dont know how to fix?
i can understand if you know whats wrong, but its taking a hell of chance if you dont.

you should be able to get error codes working, bridging te1 and e1.

[Mattr6288]

Thanks for the reply i brought because it was v.cheap and im a qualified mechanic thinking i could read the codes and repair relativly easily but unfortunatly when i bridge te1 and e1 the light doesnt flash at all its jst stays lit!

[jimGTS]

your doing it with the engine off right?
just key in the on position (but not running), bridge te1 and e1 with a paperclip.

with no codes it should constantly flash.

[Mattr6288]

Yep im doin ignition on but not running, bridging te1 and e1 and the light jst stays illuminated!!
No flashes at all!
Also plugged my snap on scanner in with "no communication"

[_Al_]

Could have a piggyback ECU.. Some of them will return no codes.

The ECU is on the firewall in the boot. You'll need to pop the carpet off to get at it. Post a picture if you can.


Those warning lights on the dash could be quite a problem. Are you sure that the car isn't a turbo conversion?

[Chris_D]

Sounds like aftermarket ECU, or the TE1 wire is broken. Worth double checking continuity of the E1 terminal to the chassis.

Does the engine light only come on once above 3K rpm, or is it on constantly ?

[Chris_D]

Another thought, have a good check of all earths as that may be behind the lights staying on with ign off.

[notroubleclubber]

And my favourite subject............check the ecu for blown capacitors. Plenty of threads on here about that including mine and Chris_D`s.

[Chris_D]

Leaving aside the lack of error codes.
Rich running on boost on a rev 2 is quite likely a significant air leak on the pressure side of the turbo - some of the air metered through the AFM escapes without going into the engine, meanwhile fuel is added according to the full amount that passed through the AFM.

Likely candidates are splits in the intercooler pipework or if an atmospheric dump valve has been added and is not closing fully. Latter often caused by the small vac line to the actuator missing making it act like a pressure relief valve rather than holding it closed on boost.

[Mattr6288]

Notroubleclubber, spot on! Just opened up my ecu and found one blown capacitor and one large track on opposite side corroded, so next step repair or replace??
Thanks

[_Al_]

It's repairable (google or search on here for guidance) or see what you can pick up from cars being broken or on eBay.

[Mattr6288]

I had it sent off for repair but with no gaurantees and unforunatly not fixed it so need new
89661-17380 ???

[Chris_D]

You're welcome to send it to me, will only cost postage. I expect the repairer just changed capacitors and didn't repair all the corroded tracks.

PM me if you want.