Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

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Sonac
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Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by Sonac »

I'm going to do a coolant flush and change soon on my 92 Turbo. I have a metal head gasket and I heard one of the biggest points of failure for those is when corrosion inhibitor is not added to the coolant.

I want to get some decent OAT or HOAT coolant since they are less corrosive in general. I know HOAT is pretty kind to Aluminium.

But I'd also consider topping it up every year with some decent corrosion inhibitor.

I've been crawling around on the forum here and there are some posts about coolant but each have very conflicting views and some are oriented towards N/A models which obviously don't have to deal with as much heat.

What do you fill your turbos with to protect the mixed metals?

Thanks


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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by peteV6R5 »

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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by Sonac »

peteV6R5 wrote: 06/05/19 16:39 Toyota forelife
or Halford Advanced
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... e-5-litres
or comma
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engin ... lant-rm-5l
all OAT and 5 year life
Fantastic. I was looking at that same Halfords one. Thats what i'll pickup from Halfords tomorrow then. :th:
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by Sonac »

Actually I just realized the coolant capacity is 13 ish liters. Thats £50 near enough on coolant from Halfords. Hell no. Thought about concentrate but it seemed to come to around the same price. Went to amazon instead.

Same comma product, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0052X4DOE £18 on Amazon. Bought two of those and a 5L bottle of distilled water. I figure 10L of that premixed coolant in, top her off with distilled water. Doesn't get cold enough in the south to worry too much about a more dilute coolant mixture.

Also bought some wynns radiator flush stuff which i'm gonna run in my system for journey or two beforehand to break up all the crud in there. Then i'll flush it out with the hosepipe.

Thanks
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by benckj »

All coolant will have corrosion inhibitors to some degree. This is what separates the regular from long life fluids as the antifreeze component (glycol) doesn’t wear out.

On all my cars I change the coolant every 7-10 years but add a bottle of corrosion inhibitor (Soda ash) every couple of years to keep the PH right. Not sure what the product is called but it’s inexpensive concentrate.
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by TonyleFrog »

peteV6R5 wrote: 06/05/19 16:39 Toyota forelife
Toyota hasn't used the Forlife moniker for quite some time. Their current offerings are.
Long Life Coolant Pre-Mixed Red: 5L: Part # 08889-80002
Super Long Life Pre-Mixed Coolant Pink: 5L: Part # 08889-80072
The latter has a different chemical composition. Mainly to give a longer service life in more modern engines.

The Long Life Coolant Concentrated Red: 5L: Part # 08889-80014 is no longer stocked by Mr T dealers AFAIK.
It is still advertised by several sellers on e-Bay though. When diluting it always use deionised water.

Just as I would only use an OEM oil filter I have always used OEM coolant in T2,
The difference in cost in peanuts over the service life and its' simply not worth the possible downsides.

YMMV.

I've also learned the hard way not to use an aftermarket (i.e. non-OEM) clutch release bearing...
Sonac wrote: 06/05/19 17:33 Also bought some wynns radiator flush stuff which i'm gonna run in my system for journey or two beforehand to break up all the crud in there. Then i'll flush it out with the hosepipe.
Make sure you do this very thoroughly.

You don't want any flakes of crud blocking a water passage. Especially any internal one in the engine block.
The latter will cause a localised hot spot and has the potential to give you big trouble.
Otoh a new rad, if the result is the broken up deposits clogging the existing one, is far less costly.
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by MR2DI4 »

I don't think I have ever changed the Castrol green coolant in my car and have owned it 20 years.

Yes your told to change it on quite a frequent basis, but in reality you don't need to.

The real trick is never run plain water in it. The 3S-GTE has way to much cast iron in it from the block to the turbo housing so just plain water for any length of time and your coolant system is stuffed for life.Everything gets covered in a hard scale and no amount of flushing will remove it.

I have an old 2000 Subaru that I'm running with a cracked head gasket on one of the 3 cylinder banks and am now just running plain water in that because it just throws air into the coolant system and causes overflows so no point wasting expensive coolant in it. The water is staying clean, mainly because its an all aluminium engine and it really doesn't matter if it goes bang the next time I use it, the petrol in the tank is worth more than the car.

Clean coolant is vital for so many reasons. I have had old cars that the 6-8mm ID water pipes have blocked solid with gunk. The larger water pipes are "Crunchy" if you squeeze them, they are full of hard scale. Besides the obvious benefits, the anti-freeze lubricates your water pump seal, my MR2 is still running the factory 1990 water pump, its never been changed.
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by Sonac »

TonyleFrog wrote: 06/05/19 20:42
peteV6R5 wrote: 06/05/19 16:39 Toyota forelife
Toyota hasn't used the Forlife moniker for quite some time. Their current offerings are.
Long Life Coolant Pre-Mixed Red: 5L: Part # 08889-80002
Super Long Life Pre-Mixed Coolant Pink: 5L: Part # 08889-80072
The latter has a different chemical composition. Mainly to give a longer service life in more modern engines.

The Long Life Coolant Concentrated Red: 5L: Part # 08889-80014 is no longer stocked by Mr T dealers AFAIK.
It is still advertised by several sellers on e-Bay though. When diluting it always use deionised water.

Just as I would only use an OEM oil filter I have always used OEM coolant in T2,
The difference in cost in peanuts over the service life and its' simply not worth the possible downsides.

YMMV.

I've also learned the hard way not to use an aftermarket (i.e. non-OEM) clutch release bearing...
Sonac wrote: 06/05/19 17:33 Also bought some wynns radiator flush stuff which i'm gonna run in my system for journey or two beforehand to break up all the crud in there. Then i'll flush it out with the hosepipe.
Make sure you do this very thoroughly.

You don't want any flakes of crud blocking a water passage. Especially any internal one in the engine block.
The latter will cause a localised hot spot and has the potential to give you big trouble.
Otoh a new rad, if the result is the broken up deposits clogging the existing one, is far less costly.
Oh yeah i'm gonna leave all 4 drains open and just ram my hose pipe into the coolant fill cap and let it run for a good 5 minutes. Then i'll probably fill it with just water, run the car to flush it though the heater core etc and drain it one more time.
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by SonicSW20 »

Just buy Toyota Red concentrate and some distilled water from ECP or similar, drain, flush with water only if you want, refill, job done.

You don't need any additional additives.
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Re: Coolant / Corrision Inhibitor

Post by Sonac »

SonicSW20 wrote: 09/05/19 15:44 Just buy Toyota Red concentrate and some distilled water from ECP or similar, drain, flush with water only if you want, refill, job done.

You don't need any additional additives.
Yeah thanks. That's pretty much what I have decided from what other people have been saying. I'll flush it out with water and I got some nice comma coolant to put in. Already sitting in my house, I just need to find the time to do it.

Thanks again

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