1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

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1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 18/07/19 13:48

Hi Everybody,

I am looking to purchase a Mk2 Rev 3 GTS (Jap Import)

The original MR2 MK2 1993 Rev 3 Jap imported GTS engine was swapped for a 205 GT4 Celica engine is 2010. I just wondered if anyone has experienced any issues or has positives/negatives to share? BHP is the same i believe.

The car I am looking to purchase has traction control. It currently has a warning light. Just wondered if anyone has purchased a Rev 3 MR2 Mk2 with traction control and how to diagnose or fix the issue?

The AC isn't working. It has been re-gassed but this hasn't fixed the issue. The air-con rad was also replaced in an effort to fix the issue. Just wondered if the compressor/pump is prone to failure and how easy it is the fix the problem?

There is a water leak at the back of the engine bay. It appears to be a water pipe (Not the dreaded water pipe) Previously the owner believes it was a rusted hose clip which caused the leak. Any one have any experience of leaks in the same area?

I would really appreciate some advise and any comments!

Thanks




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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by MR2madlad » 11/08/19 20:48

Hi

The Celica ST205 engine block and head, exhaust manifold, dizzy, injectors is identical to the REV 3 MR2 Turbo, the turbo uses a steel turbine wheel rather than ceramic (CT20b) and will fit the MR2 if water coolant pipes are swapped so providing all the other original MR2 parts have been swapped the Celica Engine should not make any difference.

With regards to air conditioning if the system is holding a vacuum and or holding the R134a refrigerant so these is no leak it will be one of a few things.

1 when switching on the A/C can you hear a click noise coming from engine bay drivers side?
2 is belt fitted from the crankshaft pulley to compressor pulley?
3 is the clutch assembly plate actually fitted to compressor, should be held on with 12mm nut right in center of the compressor pulley, if nuts gone the front plate and woodruff key have gone so new clutch plate needed (this happened to mine).
4 the pressure switch in front trunk down at bottom back right is that ok i.e between the 2 pins in the connector is it short circuit ? (multimeter set to Ohms should read 0.01 - 0.04 depending on how low ohms / good your meter and leads are) if that's short then there is enough pressure (refrigerant) in the system so the switch is ok.

5 When switching on the A/C with heater set to cold and recirculating internal air can you hear a soft click in passenger foot well? (relay behind clove box is triggered by air con controller to then energize the electromagnetic coil on compressor to electromagnetically engage compressor clutch).

6 is compressor electromagnet coil open circuit, measure with multimeter on Ohms, should be pretty low ohms if its high Kilo Ohms - meg Ohms it duff.

Traction control I believe relies on the ABS sensors, check they are plugged in, check that ABS is working (ABS waning bulb in dashboard is not blown so you cant see ABS Warning light) clean the rust and crud off the sensors on the front and rear wheel hubs, be prepared to fight to remove is they have never been out / off, lots of iron junk stuck to the magnet pickup will give false / no reading to ABS / traction control computers under dash above glove box.

Hope some of this helps.

John

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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by MR2DI4 » 11/08/19 22:42

Probably wouldn't waste money on trying to fix the A/C on one of these now. Went through the process 15 years ago with no joy and lots of expense at the time. Ended up pulling the compressor, saves loads of weight and frees up the engine bay to work on. Used the A/C condenser radiator to provide extra water cooling to the intercooler, cool project.


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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 22/08/19 13:25

MR2madlad wrote:
11/08/19 20:48
Hi

The Celica ST205 engine block and head, exhaust manifold, dizzy, injectors is identical to the REV 3 MR2 Turbo, the turbo uses a steel turbine wheel rather than ceramic (CT20b) and will fit the MR2 if water coolant pipes are swapped so providing all the other original MR2 parts have been swapped the Celica Engine should not make any difference.

With regards to air conditioning if the system is holding a vacuum and or holding the R134a refrigerant so these is no leak it will be one of a few things.

1 when switching on the A/C can you hear a click noise coming from engine bay drivers side?
2 is belt fitted from the crankshaft pulley to compressor pulley?
3 is the clutch assembly plate actually fitted to compressor, should be held on with 12mm nut right in center of the compressor pulley, if nuts gone the front plate and woodruff key have gone so new clutch plate needed (this happened to mine).
4 the pressure switch in front trunk down at bottom back right is that ok i.e between the 2 pins in the connector is it short circuit ? (multimeter set to Ohms should read 0.01 - 0.04 depending on how low ohms / good your meter and leads are) if that's short then there is enough pressure (refrigerant) in the system so the switch is ok.

5 When switching on the A/C with heater set to cold and recirculating internal air can you hear a soft click in passenger foot well? (relay behind clove box is triggered by air con controller to then energize the electromagnetic coil on compressor to electromagnetically engage compressor clutch).

6 is compressor electromagnet coil open circuit, measure with multimeter on Ohms, should be pretty low ohms if its high Kilo Ohms - meg Ohms it duff.

Traction control I believe relies on the ABS sensors, check they are plugged in, check that ABS is working (ABS waning bulb in dashboard is not blown so you cant see ABS Warning light) clean the rust and crud off the sensors on the front and rear wheel hubs, be prepared to fight to remove is they have never been out / off, lots of iron junk stuck to the magnet pickup will give false / no reading to ABS / traction control computers under dash above glove box.

Hope some of this helps.

John
Hi John,

Thanks a lot for you informative response regarding the Engine, AC and ways of testing things out. When I have time this weekend I will give your suggestions a try and let you know how I get on. Fingers crossed its nothing too costly!

Regarding the TRC, it appears to be operated with a nitrogen system if i'm not mistaken? There is a stainless steel canister which says nitrogen on the side. Since driving the car home a few weeks ago I haven't actually seen any issues with the TRC light. Hopefully it is something which has either magically fixed itself or is something like a sensor as you say.

After spending some time investigating the car over the weekend I have taken lots of pictures from underneath the car of the two oil leaks and where i believe the water leak to be coming from. I have got in contact with an MR2 specialist (DriftLimits) and they have suggested it could be my rocker cover gasket or my Dizzy o-ring. However i cannot see any oil leaking from those areas when inspecting from above. If you have any other suggestions please do advise.

I have also noticed that the exhaust appears to have a minor repair made to a joint which is leaking. Would you suggest i replace the exhaust or melt the joint and re-seal it? The radiator is also heavily rusted and the brackets holding it look a bit worse for wear. Would you suggest replacing the whole lot or just using rust Hammerite removal gel and seal the metal to prevent further rusting?

Any further assistance from yourself or any one else who is in a position to advise me would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks,

Sam
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 22/08/19 13:34

MR2DI4 wrote:
11/08/19 22:42
Probably wouldn't waste money on trying to fix the A/C on one of these now. Went through the process 15 years ago with no joy and lots of expense at the time. Ended up pulling the compressor, saves loads of weight and frees up the engine bay to work on. Used the A/C condenser radiator to provide extra water cooling to the intercooler, cool project.

Thanks for the cool alternative idea. I will consider this if the AC is a nightmare to fix and costs a bomb. If not i'm not going to race the car so a bit of extra weight doesn't worry me.

Am i correct in thinking the Radiator in front of the other is for the AC? Engine coolant Radiator is the one behind?

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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by jimi » 22/08/19 15:02

Yes, the condenser is the front one
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 28/08/19 8:55

MR2madlad wrote:
11/08/19 20:48
Hi

The Celica ST205 engine block and head, exhaust manifold, dizzy, injectors is identical to the REV 3 MR2 Turbo, the turbo uses a steel turbine wheel rather than ceramic (CT20b) and will fit the MR2 if water coolant pipes are swapped so providing all the other original MR2 parts have been swapped the Celica Engine should not make any difference.

With regards to air conditioning if the system is holding a vacuum and or holding the R134a refrigerant so these is no leak it will be one of a few things.

1 when switching on the A/C can you hear a click noise coming from engine bay drivers side?
2 is belt fitted from the crankshaft pulley to compressor pulley?
3 is the clutch assembly plate actually fitted to compressor, should be held on with 12mm nut right in center of the compressor pulley, if nuts gone the front plate and woodruff key have gone so new clutch plate needed (this happened to mine).
4 the pressure switch in front trunk down at bottom back right is that ok i.e between the 2 pins in the connector is it short circuit ? (multimeter set to Ohms should read 0.01 - 0.04 depending on how low ohms / good your meter and leads are) if that's short then there is enough pressure (refrigerant) in the system so the switch is ok.

5 When switching on the A/C with heater set to cold and recirculating internal air can you hear a soft click in passenger foot well? (relay behind clove box is triggered by air con controller to then energize the electromagnetic coil on compressor to electromagnetically engage compressor clutch).

6 is compressor electromagnet coil open circuit, measure with multimeter on Ohms, should be pretty low ohms if its high Kilo Ohms - meg Ohms it duff.

Traction control I believe relies on the ABS sensors, check they are plugged in, check that ABS is working (ABS waning bulb in dashboard is not blown so you cant see ABS Warning light) clean the rust and crud off the sensors on the front and rear wheel hubs, be prepared to fight to remove is they have never been out / off, lots of iron junk stuck to the magnet pickup will give false / no reading to ABS / traction control computers under dash above glove box.

Hope some of this helps.

John
Hi John, (All)

I have carried out some of the tests you suggested over the weekend. Below are the results of my findings.

- AC and ECO lights do not turn on when buttons pressed.
- When temperature is raised and blower raised to full, hot air does come through the vents.

1 - When pushing down the AC button there was no noticeable click sound from the drivers side and as noted above there was no light on the button. (See attached pic)
2 - I am not sure where the crankshaft pulley to compressor pulley is visible from or is located? I will have to investigate or if you could send me a picture of what i should expect to see.
3 - Same applies to this item as the above, not sure where to look?
4 - I have checked the pressure switch and all seems to be okay.
5 - When switching to cold recirculating air to fresh air there is a soft click/small wiring noise that comes from the passenger foot well.
6 - I have no idea where to find or check the electromagnetic coil circuit? Any pointers?

Traction control appears to be working now. Must have fixed itself somehow. I have cleaned off all the wheels/wheel arches etc so maybe that helped.

My newest issue is the idle speed which to me appears to be very low. Idle speed starts off where i would expect at around 1200 RPM but then after 5-10 mins of the engine heating up, it goes down to around 800 RPM. See attached picture. Any ideas?

Any help would be really appreciated!

Cheers,

Sam
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 28/08/19 9:09

Also, in the drivers side under steering wheel trim on the right hand side i have a bank of 3 switches and the coin holder.

Left to right - Coin Holder, Traction Control, NO IDEA, Fog lights.

Picture below shows the wiring to the back of the switches and above in my previous post is the picture of the bank of 4 items from the front. Any ideas on what the 2nd switch from right is would be great!
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by TonyleFrog » 28/08/19 10:18

SamJ123 wrote:
28/08/19 9:09
Any ideas on what the 2nd switch from right is would be great!
As it has a tell-tale, my money is on it being an cheap aftermarket one for a rear fog light.
https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums ... dashboard/
JDM imports don't have a rear fog light which is required to pass a UK MOT test.
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 30/08/19 8:40

TonyleFrog wrote:
28/08/19 10:18
SamJ123 wrote:
28/08/19 9:09
Any ideas on what the 2nd switch from right is would be great!
As it has a tell-tale, my money is on it being an cheap aftermarket one for a rear fog light.
https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums ... dashboard/
JDM imports don't have a rear fog light which is required to pass a UK MOT test.
Perfect! Thanks a lot TonyleFrog. 100% Correct.

Would you by any chance where I can find the reverse light fuse?

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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by TonyleFrog » 30/08/19 13:48

If it's the fuse you'll have other issues besides the reversing light/s.
See post #4 here - https://www.mr2oc.com/61-3sgte-turbo/22 ... -fuse.html
More info - https://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mo ... 0506267e9b
Unfortunately the image links in the latter are toast.
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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by notroubleclubber » 30/08/19 14:48

mmmm. the light on the dash....

was the st205 ecu also used as it would be looking for the chargecooler and if it cant see it that can throw up a light.


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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 30/08/19 23:24

I am taking the car to the Mr2 specialists Drift Limits in a couple of weeks so I will ask them to investigate the backup switch on the gearbox. Hopefully it's an easy fix. As you say if it was a fuse I'd have some serious issues and to my knowledge so far there is very little wrong with the car.

Shame about the images being toast :(


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Re: 1993 Rev 3 GTS Help

Post by SamJ123 » 30/08/19 23:26

notroubleclubber wrote:
30/08/19 14:48
mmmm. the light on the dash....

was the st205 ecu also used as it would be looking for the chargecooler and if it cant see it that can throw up a light.
I have no idea to be honest. Is there any obvious difference between the Ecu's?

Which light are you referring to on my dash?

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