Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

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MR2madlad
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Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

Post by MR2madlad »

Hi everybody

Got a couple of quick question

I recently rebuilt my RE3 turbo engine and its running great pull like a train.

However I had to do a coolant hose (top heater rubber to water tree) which meant I had to take off the air filter (HKS green mushroom) and the OEM intake pipe, when I removed this there was about 2 teaspoons of oil in the intake pipe by turbo intake and the compressor intake was all covered in oil and stuff.

The turbo was rebuilt unit from Turbo Technics so I doubt it coming from that.

The pipe that comes from the top of the oil catch can that usually goes back to air intake hose I got rid of and sent that into a second catch can with sponge in as it always seemed to put a film over everything before I rebuilt the engine, this second can has a small filter that vents to outside world.

So I can only think its coming from the smaller diameter pipe that goes to a hard-line around the distributer area and I think it connects to the underside of throttle / butterfly valve unit, not had good light to look properly.

Is it normal to get oil here? the car has done 2k since rebuild, not done a compression test on it yet as I don't have a tester (broke old one) but would not think its getting by the rings as they are essentially new, not ragged the car either.

The funny grey valve thing that connects from cam cover to intake manifold rattles so think the PCV valve is ok.

Car doesn't seem to use any oil, its still at max on dipstick.

Any ideas?

Second question which I am after help over is I bought a timing strobe light (no 5, 10, 15, 20 BTDC settings knob only a trigger switch) and set ignition timing to 10 Deg BTDC on cambelt cover while car was hot and E1 TE1 shorted, pickup off HT lead No 1 cambelt end but the car now idles at 2000 RPM when cold and as it warms drops to 1000 RPM which is still high.

I've not moved the TPS or butterfly valve end stop screw, would this sort the high idle out or is the timing still wrong? do I need a timing light that I can set to 10 Deg BTDC setting on set to that to do it correctly?

Gas pedal cable is also not pulling the butterfly open as it still does this when unhooked.

Although idling high she bloody shifts now but does seem to drink more fuel.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks guys

John


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MR2DI4
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Re: Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

Post by MR2DI4 »

There is always a bit of oil floating about in the intake but it should be minimal as most of it came into mine via a worn turbo compressor seal before I rebuilt the turbo. If you not getting clouds of smoke as soon as you come on boost don't worry about it. When it gets bad it starts building up on the plugs on the insulator as a grey mass and appears on your plug threads. Pull a spark plug and take a look at it, the plugs really do tell you what you need to know.
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Re: Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

Post by abovetherim »

I can't help with the oil issue as not had a turbo.

As for the idle..
Basic timing light should be fine. Just make sure the engine is fully warm when checking.
Also check the throttle cable is not too tight and the butterfly closes fully.
Also worth checking the idle control valve is clean and not sticking.
Lastly if you know the butterfly is closing properly then check the TPS is set correctly. Quick and easy with a meter.
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Re: Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

Post by MR2madlad »

abovetherim wrote: 19/12/19 11:01 I can't help with the oil issue as not had a turbo.

As for the idle..
Basic timing light should be fine. Just make sure the engine is fully warm when checking.
Also check the throttle cable is not too tight and the butterfly closes fully.
Also worth checking the idle control valve is clean and not sticking.
Lastly if you know the butterfly is closing properly then check the TPS is set correctly. Quick and easy with a meter.
Thanks for the info.

Plugs come out and according to pictures online are "normal, engine healthy all good" which is reassuring so will leave it and see.

The Idle trouble..... I have completely stripped the throttle body and cleaned the ISV it was pretty clean anyway but run some carb cleaner through it, I tested the operation of the electromagnetic open / close (12 v on centre pin, 0 v on top and then the bottom (RO, RC) it opens and shuts so electrically its working as it should.

With no power the ISV sits open 1/3rd ish, one thing I did notice is if I blocked the output air hole and blew into the pipe air seems to escape around the electromagnetic unit, i'll take it off and run some instant gasket around it, careful not to coat the spinning magnet bit inside, might help it hopefully.

No other leaks, pulled both 7mm tubes off top throttle body and blocked metal ones on TB no change, checked pipe from brake servo again by removal and thumb over still 1000 RPM (did go up slightly when pipe pulled off but came down when blocked) same with the manifold pressure / vacuum cube thing all 6 inch of pipe ok, even checked inlet manifold bolts were done up just incase I missed one at the rebuild.

I reset the TPS (was pretty bang on anyway) but its a weird procedure and needs either a spare plug or crock clips on meter probes, + the manual goes on about pulling a vacuum (Celica ST205) I know the TPS is essentially a potentiometry and that part is nice and smooth on analogue ohm meter but the idle bit setting, looking at diagram it should be 0 Ohms at idle setting but mine is 82 Ohms butterfly shut all the way, at 0.5 mm feeler in gap from end stop bolt to accelerator cable assembly it goes up to 130 odd Ohms, then 0.7mm feeler its is open circuit, its working as it should but the idle part is essentially a switch and once you get to 0.7mm the switch is off, as long as the ECU knows this and is happy with a couple of hundred Ohms until it goes O/C then its all good.

I've also continuity checked the ISV and TPS wiring back to ECU and all is 0.2 - 0.4 Ohms so no breaks in wires.

Once I put it all back on it now idles at 1500 cold and when warm is literally on 1000 RPM.

If I place my hand in front of the throttle body air intake and block, it will suck slightly (butterfly not completely air tight as it can't be ells it will stick) and putting hand here creating a seal makes no difference to idle speed so the ISV must be letting in too much air.

I have rechecked the timing, its right on the money when link in diag socket is in place and engine / temp is normal so 10 BTDC is correct and that's where its sits viewed between intercooler pipes.

Got to take throttle off again as one of the water pipes is not sealing (red coolant dripping out quite quick all over exhaust) so will seal the ISV electromagnet block to TB while there sorting the coolant leak probably be pipes to be honest as the rest have been done.

The water pipes on TB are pointless no temperature monitors here so I can only think Toyota stuffed water through this was to prevent the ISC valve from freezing / aided in defrost if moisture collected inside and froze in colder areas of the world.

Hopefully this will cure it fingers crossed.
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Re: Turbo Rev 3 Oil in air intake pipe and over compressor wheel

Post by MR2DI4 »

Yeah I blocked off the coolant to the throttle body on mine as part of reducing the air intake temperatures. Basically its there to prevent things freezing up solid in cold climates but it eventually heats your entire TB and part of the inlet manifold to 70 Deg C so thats a no go for me when most of the time the air coming out the IC is less than that unless its under sustained boost.

When I pull the EFI fuse on mine and you reset the ECU, the idle is always LOW to the point of stalling the engine until the ECU adjusts the idle to about 750rpm after you stop for a while and the engine is up to temperature.

You can literally see the idle going up from about 500rpm to 750rpm then it locks in the idle.

The TPS is basically a big variable resistor, your not really that interested in absolute resistances your interested in very smooth changes in resistance and no really sudden changes or worse still an open circuit at some point in the rotation. They wear out both electrically and mechanically in terms of play in the shaft. It was one of the things I replaced when I modified the turbo and increased the boost as I wanted the engine ECU to be getting the critical sensor signals correct.

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