Probably not critical but the rear outside pad could be seen as left or right side fitting due to the wear indicator.
Do people fit their outside pads leading or trailing the wheel rotation ?
My thoughts are trailing so if and then the low wear indicator finally hits the disc the rotor is trying to move it away from the pad.
I only use genuine factory Toyota pads on mine. The inside pad ALWAYS wears faster and mine last 50000km only.
Toyota supply what is essentially a left and a right side pad so if it really didn't matter they would supply only two pads the same.
Just got to mine in time again. By the time that wear indicator starts to squeal the inside pad would be metal to metal.
Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
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SonicSW20
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
I've never thought about it tbh!
Inside pad wearing quicker is pretty normal on this style of caliper as its a floating caliper (piston(s) on inside only), even with your sliders all in perfect condition for the full 50k km it'll put a little more force on the inside pad vs the outside as there will be *some* fricton in the sliders, however small.
Inside pad wearing quicker is pretty normal on this style of caliper as its a floating caliper (piston(s) on inside only), even with your sliders all in perfect condition for the full 50k km it'll put a little more force on the inside pad vs the outside as there will be *some* fricton in the sliders, however small.
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jimi
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
Sticky handbrake cables and/or sticky pistons can also add to the wear on the inside pad. 
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benckj
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
Maybe I’m the exception as I never let my parents pads get worn enough to even use wear indicators. They are cheap and easy to replace once I see significant reduction in thickness by viewing in center caliper slot. Ever since I’ve rebuilt calipers they seem to wear evenly all the same.
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MR2DI4
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
More even wear is possible but mine has new brake cables and the sliders are fine but the inside still wears faster.
The inside pad also has less surface area and its probably subject to more road dust and hence wears faster. The outside pads on mine still had 4mm left and wear was even and the same both sides.
The inside pads did not wear even and tapered to either the front or the rear cannot tell now they are out. Clearly a single piston is not a great idea for even pressure and neither is floating calipers really as they can twist. Worst point on the inside pads was down to 0.75mm.
I stuffed a set of rear rotors once because it was metal to metal on the inside but of course looking at the outside pads it all looked fine.
Rotors only lasting 2 pad changes anyway your down to 15mm minimum thickness at 100,000Km.
People shouldn't freak out but I hand file my rotors not the main face just remove the lip created on the outside edge. As long as the main face has even wear no need to remove any metal by getting them resurfaced.
Finished the job today and took the car for a test drive. Brakes on the MR2 are not great, I'm now used to 18inch wheels and big rotors on the Subaru. Cannot wait for the Brembo's on the new STi.
Think I will now bring the car up to standard and sell it. 23 years of ownership must be a record over here in NZ now, maybe 2 years until the new STi is released, time to free up the garage space.
The inside pad also has less surface area and its probably subject to more road dust and hence wears faster. The outside pads on mine still had 4mm left and wear was even and the same both sides.
The inside pads did not wear even and tapered to either the front or the rear cannot tell now they are out. Clearly a single piston is not a great idea for even pressure and neither is floating calipers really as they can twist. Worst point on the inside pads was down to 0.75mm.
I stuffed a set of rear rotors once because it was metal to metal on the inside but of course looking at the outside pads it all looked fine.
Rotors only lasting 2 pad changes anyway your down to 15mm minimum thickness at 100,000Km.
People shouldn't freak out but I hand file my rotors not the main face just remove the lip created on the outside edge. As long as the main face has even wear no need to remove any metal by getting them resurfaced.
Finished the job today and took the car for a test drive. Brakes on the MR2 are not great, I'm now used to 18inch wheels and big rotors on the Subaru. Cannot wait for the Brembo's on the new STi.
Think I will now bring the car up to standard and sell it. 23 years of ownership must be a record over here in NZ now, maybe 2 years until the new STi is released, time to free up the garage space.
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SonicSW20
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
How severe was the taper on the wear? If the bump on the back of the pad is not located within the cutouts on the piston it'll do that, but it'll be quite a severe angle.
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jimi
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
Sticky slide can cause that as well
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MR2DI4
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
They just don't wear even end of story. Bump not a problem the piston was wound right back in then back out for the bump to go into the recess in the piston. wear probably at the leading edge and down to 0.75mm back to about 2mm at the trailing edge. Both sides had pads in almost identical condition.
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jimi
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
Mine wear evenly since I refurbished the brakes (couple of years ago) My X1-9 had similar style rear brakes ( single piston, sliding caliper) and wore evenly as long as you kept up the maintenance on them ( same as any brake system) The single piston, sliding caliper design has been in use for many years by many manufacturers, nothing wrong with it IMO.
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SonicSW20
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
While I've had one pad wear a bit more than the other, I have not had uneven wear across the pad, except on my first MR2 where the inside rear pad was installed incorrectly.MR2DI4 wrote: ↑05/10/21 10:07 They just don't wear even end of story. Bump not a problem the piston was wound right back in then back out for the bump to go into the recess in the piston. wear probably at the leading edge and down to 0.75mm back to about 2mm at the trailing edge. Both sides had pads in almost identical condition.
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MR2DI4
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Re: Rear brake pad question on outside pad.
Well I rebuilt the calipers the handbrake cables have been replaced it had new factory pads and brand new factory rotors so its as good as it gets. Floating calipers with a single pot like the MR2 rears are simply not great. There's a reason for going 4 pot or 6 pot or even 8 pot these days you get even pad pressure because the sliders are gone as well.
He'll I didn't know it but there are 10 pot calipers and even 12 pot calipers.
The biggest problem is the wear indicator is on the wrong pad. Have driven the car for nearly 200,000km and the inside pad ALWAYS wears out first. It needs something like 20% more pad material on it.
He'll I didn't know it but there are 10 pot calipers and even 12 pot calipers.
The biggest problem is the wear indicator is on the wrong pad. Have driven the car for nearly 200,000km and the inside pad ALWAYS wears out first. It needs something like 20% more pad material on it.
