Replacement CD player advice

[nikky]

My Rev 4 1997 factory fitted CD player is driving me mad (only works when warm and dry) so I'm going to replace it.

I've found all the helpful 'How To' instructions to remove the old one (there I was naively thinking it would pull in and out like most old cars!) so that's not the question.
Is there anything in particular that I should look for to ensure a replacement fits / is compatible? Any particular connectors or techy things (I know nothing about audio units)? I plan on leaving the separate tape player in and using that when I need some 80s classics....

I hope to get a unit that includes a CD player, DAB radio, and MP3/USB input

Thanks for any advice.

[benckj]

Won't get a new CD which integrates into the OEM unit. Best advice is to ditch the whole head unit and wire directly to speakers. All the components including rear sub, amp and speakers are generally toast and not worth trying to salvage. This doesn't have to cost a bucket load so shop around for something reasonable.

Jim

[Tallboy]

You can get connectors that allow straight plug in connection(as long as your wiring hasn't been messed about with) it's a different connection block depending on active or non active stereo(sub or not)

[jimi]

http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk2. ... bartid=243

[SonicSW20]

Won't get a new CD which integrates into the OEM unit. Best advice is to ditch the whole head unit and wire directly to speakers. All the components including rear sub, amp and speakers are generally toast and not worth trying to salvage. This doesn't have to cost a bucket load so shop around for something reasonable.

Jim

??

You can get adapters to make most aftermarket units work with the OEM premium / active system if that's what the OP has.

[benckj]

To be fair it's not a great solution. Speakers and wires are substandard and often severely deteriorated. If you have the premium sound system the adapter harness won't work so rewiring only option. Figure out which you have and read BGB to understand system.

Jim

[SonicSW20]

Yes, it will. You just have to get the correct adapter. Looks like this:



No rewiring required.

[benckj]

Ok never seen one like that. Most units Ive worked on had faults in HU and amp located by rear sub so was never an option to try and interface.

I stand by my speaker & wire replacement. My 98GT with low miles had little left of cardboard speaker cones when I inspected. Even when new the quality is sub standard compared to modern replacements. As the ol saying goes, 'ya can't polish a turd'.

[SonicSW20]

I know a couple people who just replaced the OEM speakers but retained the OEM amps. Don't know if they did wiring as well, but it worked well. The OEM amps are much better than the crap internal amps on an aftermarket stereo.

[BahnStormer]

I gather the tubby's had some better OEM stereo options than the Spyder's, but I've been really impressed with my replacement of the OEM HU and speakers in my 2007 Spyder in terms of simplicity and weight - the headunit has a reasonable onboard Mosfet 4x50W and it's a QUARTER of the size and weight of the OEM one... I only use it for playing music off the 32Gb USB "stub" and mostly for streaming Bluetooth audio via Spotify / Waze...

I'm tempted to stream the audio via a 3.5mm conector (via the B&O DAC in the phone) or via an aptX HD receiver, but honestly, the quality is surprisingly good over the regular Bluetooth and I like the option of using the stereo as a handsfree phone too.

[nikky]

Thanks so far guys - I had the speakers replaced by a radio mechanic about 2 years ago because they were buzzing. So I expect that bit is ok. I would have to check how far up the wiring he replaced.

[SonicSW20]

I gather the tubby's had some better OEM stereo options than the Spyder's, but I've been really impressed with my replacement of the OEM HU and speakers in my 2007 Spyder in terms of simplicity and weight - the headunit has a reasonable onboard Mosfet 4x50W and it's a QUARTER of the size and weight of the OEM one... I only use it for playing music off the 32Gb USB "stub" and mostly for streaming Bluetooth audio via Spotify / Waze...

I'm tempted to stream the audio via a 3.5mm conector (via the B&O DAC in the phone) or via an aptX HD receiver, but honestly, the quality is surprisingly good over the regular Bluetooth and I like the option of using the stereo as a handsfree phone too.

There's a few variants of the 'premium' systems. It was available as an option on UK SW20's too.

That amp will be 50W peak. Typically these internal amps manage maybe 15WRMS, and when they get near max power theres a *lot* of harmonic distortion.

Kenwood and Alpine both make inline amps which are super compact and can be installed behind the head unit. You can use the OEM wiring too - fine on a ZZW30 but I would be cautious on a SW20 or AW11 due to the age of the wiring.

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/kenwood ... ifier.html

https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/produc ... -26445.htm

These both push about 45WRMS at less than 1% THD. Big improvement over the head unit internal amps.

They are a bit expensive for the power they put out, but you're paying for the compact size really.

[jimi]

The copper wire won't deteriorate unless exposed to moisture/excessive heat/overload, much the same for the insulation (+ constant U/V exposure can make it brittle). Easy to check, if the insulation is still flexible and not discoloured then it's fine. Strip a little bit of insulation off and if the copper you expose is still bright/shiny then it's fine as well.
I know all of the wiring I have worked with on my MK1 (1988) has been in excellent condition.

[SonicSW20]

Show me a water tight MR2 door, and I'll show you an MR2 that needs to be used more often