Alloy wheel replacement
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Topic author - Posts: 1029
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Alloy wheel replacement
I tried my 205 40 17 front alloys on yesterday to make sure they would fit ok as i wasnt sure if my car is lowered or not.
They fit ok but I have a few questions:
1. On the top of my shock absorber where the spring is was quite a few bits of round plastic/rubber. it looked worn and wasnt sure what it was and if i need to replace. I only checked one side so not sure if its normal.Heres the best pic i could take:
2. The original wheel bolts stick out too much and the front cover wont fit on. Does anyone know the best bolts to get so i can fit the covers back on.
3. I didnt try the rears but im not sure if the fronts sit flush enough. Heres the best pic i can get:
Please ignore the state of the alloys. I have been quoted £100 for complete sandblast and powder coat in whatever colour i like.
4. Im also getting new tyres for the lot so what would you recommend as best sizes.
I think they would look good all in black. What do you think?
They fit ok but I have a few questions:
1. On the top of my shock absorber where the spring is was quite a few bits of round plastic/rubber. it looked worn and wasnt sure what it was and if i need to replace. I only checked one side so not sure if its normal.Heres the best pic i could take:
2. The original wheel bolts stick out too much and the front cover wont fit on. Does anyone know the best bolts to get so i can fit the covers back on.
3. I didnt try the rears but im not sure if the fronts sit flush enough. Heres the best pic i can get:
Please ignore the state of the alloys. I have been quoted £100 for complete sandblast and powder coat in whatever colour i like.
4. Im also getting new tyres for the lot so what would you recommend as best sizes.
I think they would look good all in black. What do you think?
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Re: Alloy wheel replacement
The mangled rubber in the picture is a strut cover ,should cover the shiny section of the strut
well known to rot away ,best cut it all off because it could foul up the strut when turning
The standard alloy wheel nuts are a different design ,they have a collar on them and are not designed to fit aftermarket wheels,you need some nuts for the wheels tuner nuts i think are the choice
well known to rot away ,best cut it all off because it could foul up the strut when turning
The standard alloy wheel nuts are a different design ,they have a collar on them and are not designed to fit aftermarket wheels,you need some nuts for the wheels tuner nuts i think are the choice
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Re: Alloy wheel replacement
^^This^^trevsmr2 wrote:The standard alloy wheel nuts are a different design ,they have a collar on them and are not designed to fit aftermarket wheels,you need some nuts for the wheels tuner nuts i think are the choice
The stock ones have a washer and are designed to fit a flat seat not the conical one on the vast majority of aftermarket wheels - http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forum/59/41923.html.
Using the stock ones is dangerous because they will not seat properly and the wheel could come loose. Furthermore the stock washers will create point loading where they contact the wheel seats. The upshot is likely to be seat damage and in extreme cases the stresses could cause the wheel centre to fail.
Get the right nuts NOW!
It's also a good idea to carry one set of stock nuts in the glove compartment in case you need to fit the space saver spare wheel.
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
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Re: Alloy wheel replacement
couple of questions
1) what size are your wheels
17" - yea got that
width??
ET?? - offset
2) are the wheels staggered - wider rears?
Reason for asking is if 7J the max recommended rears are 225, if 7.5 then you can have recommended 235.
If they are all the same width (none staggered) then you will need a 10mm spacer on the rear to get the wheels sort of in line.
215/40/17 front and 235/40/17 rear is a good set up as it gets 20mm staggered tyres front to rear.
If you have staggered wheels 7J and 8J (minimum) you can go 245/40/17 rear and get the better 30mm staggered set up.
1) what size are your wheels
17" - yea got that
width??
ET?? - offset
2) are the wheels staggered - wider rears?
Reason for asking is if 7J the max recommended rears are 225, if 7.5 then you can have recommended 235.
If they are all the same width (none staggered) then you will need a 10mm spacer on the rear to get the wheels sort of in line.
215/40/17 front and 235/40/17 rear is a good set up as it gets 20mm staggered tyres front to rear.
If you have staggered wheels 7J and 8J (minimum) you can go 245/40/17 rear and get the better 30mm staggered set up.
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Topic author - Posts: 1029
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Re: Alloy wheel replacement
I couldnt find any markings on the wheels apart from "38" on all of them and "via" which i am guessing is a make or a jdm marking?
The rears currently have 235 40 17s on them which the tread is fine but the side walls have a couple of chunks taken off them so will replace these.
The fronts are 205 40 17 and both these need replacing which is a shame as the tread is fine too but sidewalls are very perished.
The rears currently have 235 40 17s on them which the tread is fine but the side walls have a couple of chunks taken off them so will replace these.
The fronts are 205 40 17 and both these need replacing which is a shame as the tread is fine too but sidewalls are very perished.
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Re: Alloy wheel replacement
38 is likely to be the offset. VIA explanation herenotroubleclubber wrote:I couldnt find any markings on the wheels apart from "38" on all of them and "via" which i am guessing is a make or a jdm marking?
https://www.jwtc.jp/open/html/e/situmon1.html
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"