15mm Hubcentric wheel spacer fitment

[MR2Jay]

Good morning, I'm not sure if anyone can actually answer this but something is niggling at me.

Right, I've bought these to bring the Blitz rears out flush to the arch



They are 15mm hubcentric spacers.

Now I understand the principle.... You bolt these onto to existing hubs and use the new bolts to affix the wheel but something is biting at me a bit.

Now, with standard 40mm rear Studs, the limit I understand before switching to the secondary Studs is 10mm. Anything more and there isn't enough thread left to securely mount the wheel. That I get.

What is in my head though is my rear Studs are 51mm extended ones, 11mm longer than stock. This is for the NS2's as they won't fix to a stock length stud. That has got me thinking.

Can anyone see any issues with knocking the secondary Studs out of the spacer, modifying the spacer back to a standard "sleeve" type but bolting this to the hub? Effectively what I'm thinking is using the same stud to secure both the spacer and the wheel. I'm my mind, that would be a better (and safer) solution in my case as I'm not relying on a secondary fixing point for the wheel.

Can anyone see any flaws in my logic? I'm hoping I have the measurements correct in my head. I want to be sure in my head before taking a mallet to these nice, new parts

Cheers guys

[baileydom]

I see your logic but presumably the NS2's need the 51mm extended studs as the stock ones aren't long enough? So yours are 11mm longer?

So the 15mm spacers are 5mm over what you could get away with on stock studs anyway, that suggests to me that if you take your extended studs and say that yes they would easily hold the spacers on with wheels that don't need extended studs, that means that you only have 6mm extra over stock for the NS2s.

I'm not sure that's enough tbh. I'd want more turns on the wheel but than that tbh.

I ran bolt on spacers for 2 years(ish) and never had any issues, I checked the spacer bolts pretty much every time I did a wheel change and they were always the correct torque.

[peteV6R5]

Jay - if your Blitz have recesses then it wont matter if the MR2 hub 51mm studs protrude slightly.
I would lock the HC space as it was designed mate, then use the HC studs to secure the wheel to the car.

Had 15mm on with my LND wheels which had recesses and they worked well.

If you dont have recesses in the Blitz then I would revert back to standard studs.

[MR2Jay]

Hmmm, the issue is that I want to be able to swap the wheels over to keep my look fresh on the car once the NS2's are refurbished as well. Swapping the Studs over each time just isn't practical.

Truthfully, although the Blitz do have a recess, from memory it is offset slightly from the holes. I doubt the 51mm ones would fit in them.

The NS2's don't need the spacers so they would be removed as well when swapping wheels.

I'm also thinking from an engineering point of view. By using the stock Studs for the lot (the bolts for the spacers AND the wheel nuts) wouldn't that give a more reliable fixing as the wheels would still be bolted directly to the hub, even if they are 15mm further out?

[baileydom]

How is one bolt more reliable than 2? Or in this case 5 bolts more than 10? Lol I've heard many times people saying that bolt through are better than bolt on and so far no one has ever explained it in a way that I'd agree with. If all the bolts are tightened to the correct torque there shouldn't be an issue.

[MR2Jay]

I know Dom, technically if the bolts are all tight, is shouldn't make a difference. However it does mean that I'm still bolting the wheels to the same point (and therefore a known component designed for) holding the wheels to the car....

[baileydom]

Tell you what, I have a solution. I'll take your new rims off your hands so you don't have to worry about it lol [emoji14] I'm even prepared to pay £8. Lol

[MR2Jay]

Erm.... Let me give this the due consideration it deserves

[baileydom]

Haha

[chris]

as long as the spigots are holding the wheel dead centre (60.1mm on both inner and outer) and the studs are long enough to have a full thread engagement when you fit the wheel nuts then there should be no problem once it's all tightened up if you use it as a 'straight through' spacer... it's the spigots and spigot rings on the wheel that keep it all centralised. So as long as the wheel nuts get tightened as you would normally do so, all should be 'good in the hood'

The major thing that definitely needs doing is to have a decent amount of thread engagement between the wheel nuts and the studs... as long as you have that, I see no problem

[MR2Jay]

That's actually a big help Chris..... Thanks

These are 60.1mm centre bore so will be dead centre. In fact I tested one on the hub the other night and it's a snug fit but goes on without forcing the issue.

Ok, tell you what I might do. I'm doing the passenger side this evening so once it is finished, I might put the disc back on the finger tighten a spacer on. What I'll do is measure from the face of the spacer to the end of the hub fitted stud and do the same with the spacer fitted one. Provided it is pretty close (or even longer on the hub ones), I'll bolt these on as a straight through spacer. If not then I'll rethink

Big thing is you have confirmed that it is possible Thanks bud

[shinny]

Now, with standard 40mm rear Studs, the limit I understand before switching to the secondary Studs is 10mm. Anything more and there isn't enough thread left to securely mount the wheel. That I get.

I had 10mm hubcentric spacers at the ready when I was fitting my SSRs... with the standard studs I had 1 1/2 turns of thread engagement at best. Nowhere near good enough! It might be that other wheels fit better.

I'll +1 Chris's post... knocking the studs out to make a slip-on spacer is fine. In fact with the extended studs could easily interfere with the back of the wheels if you use the spacer as a bolt-on.

[MR2Jay]

Actually Shinny, that's quite useful in itself

If you had 1 1/2 turns on a 10mm spacer and stock Studs then my spacers at 15mm (5mm thicker) but 11mm longer Studs, that should, in theory, give me the 1 1/2 turns I've got plus an additional 6mm of thread

All depends on how the nuts sit in the rim as well..... So many factors at play here

[d-peg]

I would say no less than a minimum of 5 turns on the nut to secure. When we tap holes into plate we look for a minimum of 3 threads engagement. Personally, I wouldn't be happy holding a wheel on with any less than 5 turns. My BMW is 6 turns..