Rear brake disc and pad change

[SonicSW20]

I've never had a disc get stuck on. Shouldn't require hours of hammering to free it. One firm hit from behind should break it free seeing as the only thing holding it will be corrosion.

[mr2_maverick]

I've never had a disc get stuck on. Shouldn't require hours of hammering to free it. One firm hit from behind should break it free seeing as the only thing holding it will be corrosion.

I think it depends how bad the rust is, I once spent a considerable amount of time. It came off eventually but took a lot of swear words and blows with a big hammer.

[MR2DI4]

The big problem with the MR2 rear brakes is the calipers cease up. Even with that cube it can be very difficult to screw the piston back in which means you need to rebuild the rear calipers. When they are like new you can screw them back in with a pair long nose pliers, its that easy.

Stuck rear calipers lead to all sorts of other quite major problems like uneven braking, which from high speed under hard brakes causes your MR2 to swap ends, trust me going backwards at 100km/hr is not fun.

[mr2_maverick]

The big problem with the MR2 rear brakes is the calipers cease up. Even with that cube it can be very difficult to screw the piston back in which means you need to rebuild the rear calipers. When they are like new you can screw them back in with a pair long nose pliers, its that easy.

Stuck rear calipers lead to all sorts of other quite major problems like uneven braking, which from high speed under hard brakes causes your MR2 to swap ends, trust me going backwards at 100km/hr is not fun.

You've got me thinking now. After trying to bed in the brakes, one side seems like the pad has swept one half (outer) of the disc harder than the other half (inner). I'll post a picture of what I mean later but do you get what I mean? Can this be because of piston issues? The side with this behaviour was also easier to wind the piston back in.

[SonicSW20]

If one side of the disc is clean and the other side is not then that's probably a slider issue. MR2's have a 'floating' caliper, so it relies on the caliper being able to move freely on the slider pins to put any force on the pad on the other side to the piston. As long as the slider is not corroded you can usually just clean everything up and regrease with proper brake grease.

[mr2_maverick]

If one side of the disc is clean and the other side is not then that's probably a slider issue. MR2's have a 'floating' caliper, so it relies on the caliper being able to move freely on the slider pins to put any force on the pad on the other side to the piston. As long as the slider is not corroded you can usually just clean everything up and regrease with proper brake grease.

Is this pin connected to the bottom bolt that you have to undo in order to lift the caliper? I'll regrease it.

https://ebcbrakes.com/wp-content/upload ... ction1.jpg

That picture is not the exact representation but roughly shows what mine is doing.

[peteV6R5]

I think you have not located the pad spiggot into caliper piston, thus allowing the pad to rock slightly.

that is if I read it right. same side of disc but near hub is not swept, away from the hub and near the edge is swept (clean)

[SonicSW20]

Yep, that can cause that problem. Had that on my first MR2 thanks to whoever fitted the pads before I bought it. Only found out when the brakes were grinding from where the pad backing plate was contacting the disc!

[Tallboy]

In regards to the thread I think it might be right hand as I had to turn the piston clockwise to push it back in.

I did wonder if it'd slip, glad your sorted tho

[mr2_maverick]

I'll check it again but is it just a matter of reseating the pad again properly?

It's the outside pad (wheel side) pad that is doing this btw.

[mr2_maverick]

In regards to the thread I think it might be right hand as I had to turn the piston clockwise to push it back in.

I did wonder if it'd slip, glad your sorted tho

Cheers for the help mate.

[MR2DI4]

A problem you guys will get is that because the slider pin is actually going through rubber what happens is water gets between the caliper and the rubber and rusts. The rust expands and puts so much pressure on the rubber and onto the pin that it ceases up solid. I have had that with cars even in New Zealand it takes a hammer and a punch to get the pins out before you can clean it all up and use a lithium soap grease on the sliders.

The half of the caliper with the pins should just slide in and out very easily or there is a problem.

[Tallboy]

In regards to the thread I think it might be right hand as I had to turn the piston clockwise to push it back in.

I did wonder if it'd slip, glad your sorted tho

Cheers for the help mate.

No problem

[mr2_maverick]

A problem you guys will get is that because the slider pin is actually going through rubber what happens is water gets between the caliper and the rubber and rusts. The rust expands and puts so much pressure on the rubber and onto the pin that it ceases up solid. I have had that with cars even in New Zealand it takes a hammer and a punch to get the pins out before you can clean it all up and use a lithium soap grease on the sliders.


The half of the caliper with the pins should just slide in and out very easily or there is a problem.

My pins slide in and out fine so I don't think that's an issue for me. I have just rechecked the brake pads and they were correctly seated in so I don't know why only half the contact area is being swept.

I have copper grease with me at the moment, is it worth putting this on the pins or do I need to get brake/lithium grease?

Cheers