MR2 Owners Club

I've read a number of posts on here that give good opinions on Pagid. However, my experience with my Rev 2 to date is different, as follows:
3/17 @ 88k - front discs replaced, badly worn, also new calipers and pads.
8/17 @ 91k - vibration, diagnosed as warping, replaced under warranty.
11/18 @ 94k - vibration again. As it was going to get tucked up for the winter, didn't address the problem then, but now needs attention.

So, I've had two sets of discs warp after 3k miles! No chance of a warranty replacement on the current set as dates too far apart, actual mileage does not qualify.

Were both of these from a bad batch? Three months apart and I doubt our local factor sells that many of them, it could be.
Do I take the chance now and replace with Pagids, or do I dish out 2 1/2 times the price for Mr. Ts?

Any views, anybody?

Not sure why your having so many issues with them. Is it always the same disk that keeps warping? as it could be your caliper binding.
I have had pagids on for just less than a year and about done 8k miles now without an issue.
What sort of driving do you do? My understanding is that warping is due to the heating and cooling, very agressive braking and track use will generate more heat which could potentially give a higher chance of warping.

Calipers were changed with the first set, no indications of binding on them. Driving wise - just road use and not aggresive.

Have you run a DTI gauge on them to confirm they're actually warped?

Having the same problem with two brand new sets suggests to me that you:
- Have either had very bad luck with a QC issue*
- Need to look for a different explanation**

 * FWIW, in over 12 years of owning Mk2 MR2s I have never had a faulty Pagid disc.
** See - http://www.brakeworld.co.uk/pdf/tb1.pdf

Btw, what pads are you using?

SonicSW20 wrote: ↑04/04/19 12:50 Have you run a DTI gauge on them to confirm they're actually warped?

That's the first step.
Although it will tell you the extent of any run-out, it won't be definitive as to why.
See the link above.

Were the calipers you fitted new/refurbed or just working? cars that get sat for a while often get sticking brakes especially if people have used the wrong type of grease on the parts, in particular copper grease.

As above find out if the disk has actually warped, then check the full system over.

It is entirely possible you just had some seriously bad luck with 2 bad sets. I once went back to a shop 4 times with sealed empty bottles of welding gas before i finally got a full one.
As the old addage goes "Sh1t happens"

OK, it's been a while (other things to do) but we have now moved on a bit. DTI procured to test runout. Offside front disc - .05mm, I'm presuming this is OK. Nearside Front - 0.15mm, hmmm; also, I can easily rotate the hub axially to the limits of the disc holes that the wheel studs go through and can also rock it laterally. This doesn't seem right. Checked KY2 on discs and it appears that they just sit on the hub centre and are retained only by the wheel and its nuts, but should I be getting the amount of movement I'm seeing, just doesn't seem right to me.

I would have thought 0.15mm to be within an acceptable range of movement tbh.

OllieT wrote: ↑22/05/19 17:03 I would have thought 0.15mm to be within an acceptable range of movement tbh.

BGB say 0.07mm max.

Not had much reply on this, so let me focus it to one point.
Having taken the wheel off, and with the caliper and pads still in place, should I be able to easily:
1 - rotate the hub within the limit of the bolt holes on the disk?
2 - rock the disk backwards and forwards on the hub?
I get the feeling that if I took the caliper off, the disk would fall of the car. Just doesn't seem right to me.

1-you should be able to rotate the discs easily on the fronts. simples
if you cant then you have either a sticking slider or sticking piston

2 - yes that is correct they are secured by the wheels.

One other thing to note is the face of the hub needs to be clean. A but of crud at one point could cause the disc to not sit flat.

S81933 wrote: ↑25/05/19 9:03 Not had much reply on this, so let me focus it to one point.
Having taken the wheel off, and with the caliper and pads still in place, should I be able to easily:
1 - rotate the hub within the limit of the bolt holes on the disk?
2 - rock the disk backwards and forwards on the hub?
I get the feeling that if I took the caliper off, the disk would fall of the car. Just doesn't seem right to me.

If you have not reinstalled a couple of wheel nuts to hold the disc in place then yes, you will be able to move the hub independently of the disc, and move the disc about. SW20's do not use a retaining screw like some other cars do. The disc is centred by the lip on the hub, and held firmly in place by the clamping force between the hub and the wheel. With the nuts properly fastened it's not going anywhere.

Did you follow the correct procedure as per the BGB while checking the disc run out ?
ie check it then remove the disc and rotate it 1 stud and repeat (5 positions)
As above make sure the hub and inner face of the disc are clean, use 2 or3 wheel nuts to secure the disc while checking.
Where was the DTI clamped to ? it needs to be clamped to the hub or strut so it can't move in relation to the disc.