MR2 Owners Club

Hi,
Finally got around to checking why the timing is so badly off. I set the the engine to TDC and removed the timing belt cover and it appears the cam shafts are one notch off .

My question: is there a way to move the crank shafts by one notch without removing the timing belt. Obviously, the engine is in the car so the tensioner is not easy to get to. I know the proper way is to remove the tensioner, and various other mounting brackets as per the manual. Just wondering if there is an easier way.

Any tips, always helpful.
Thanks
TimN

Hi,

I'm afraid is not possible to reset the timing without taking the timing belt off.You don't need to remove belt completely, is not that difficult! You can compress tensioner in place and lock it with pin and correct the timing.Also which Revision of car you have?
Thanks

Hi,

It is a Mk2 Rev2 Turbo. Can you explain how you compress the tensioner while it is still on the engine. In the past I have had to remove it, put the pin in and then re-fit it. Love to not have to remove it, as it is a pain to get to.

Thanks!

Hi,

just use ratchet with 14mm socket or long 14mm spanner and slowly apply clockwise pressure until you can insert pin.
Use the bolt which secure t.belt roller to to t.belt roller lever,starting with spanner or ratchet about 2'o clock.

I've done myself a few times,without problem..it takes about 2 min to compress.

Hope this helps.

Thanks

Just do not apply excessive force and do it very slowly.

Perfect! Thanks :-)

No probs at all:)

I'm using a log 14mm spanner on the bolt that holds the idler pulley to the bracket and turning it clockwise doesn't want move. I have a brand new tensioner and I remember it took a lot of force to compress it to get the pin in when installed it on the engine. I guess I will have to remove the tensioner, but this adds more pain and fiddling down the side of the engine.

Thoughts?
Thanks

timnutt wrote: ↑11/07/19 13:28 I'm using a log 14mm spanner on the bolt that holds the idler pulley to the bracket and turning it clockwise doesn't want move. I have a brand new tensioner and I remember it took a lot of force to compress it to get the pin in when installed it on the engine. I guess I will have to remove the tensioner, but this adds more pain and fiddling down the side of the engine.

Thoughts?
Thanks

You have to apply constant pressure very slowly until you can insert the pin...but not to executive when you can feel that you starting tightening nut(bolt) . Another possibility that the main bolt which hold tensioner lever to cylinder head is tight or seized. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.

Thanks for your help! All fixed. Getting the tensioner back in was easier than I thought.
Tim

No problem at all. Glad is fixed.

Thanks

I've had to pull my tensioner on both the MR2's after getting intake wheel off by a notch (don't ask). Can be a little tricky but once you get a handle on where the bolts are located it goes fairly quickly. I've tried to compress the tensioner on the car but never had any luck. Maybe an old tensioner will be easier but the new ones are near impossible to compress without a vice.

jim

I'm still getting 0 degrees BTDC on my engine after triple checking the match marks , I don't have any marks on the backplate/timing cover 1, so use a mirror on a stick. I found a great guide on Toyota Gurus, on timing, which I am going to use:

https://www.toyotaguru.us/mr2-mk2-1991 ... iming.html

I'll pull the cam cover this time round if I have to, but will make sure I have the two cam cover gaskets, the ICSV to TB gasket and the TB gasket on order.

I have always struggled with the tensioner, but some offset 'swan neck' spanners might help, as they allow for more careful leverage and don't slip like flatter spanners do on recesses.

Otherwise, if that doesn't work undo the two 12 mm tensioner bolts and reset with a 6" g-clamp/vice. I have found that a lot of the 1.5 mm allen keys break or bend too readily for the hydraulic type tensioner on the 3SGE engines, so I use a 1.5 mm drill bit which has higher tensile strength.

The cam timing marks are terrible in the mk2 and i think they are at the bottom of the cams or something crazy that makes it really hard with the engine in the car

I guess i got lucky as i was the first from the factory to do mine. With the engine TDC I got a permanent marker pen and put my own marks on before pulling the belt.

All the marks still there the second time the belt was changed.

Also did the tensioner reset in the vice. Got a pin from Toyota they had a few kicking round the workshop.