Knowledge required, gears grinding.
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Knowledge required, gears grinding.
Hi all,
As per my intro I’m looking at buying an MR2 MK2
I went to look at one yesterday that was really good in the body but had a couple of things that I could use a bit of info on.
The main concern was when he changed gear, 2nd to 3rd I think? It made a grinding noise as if he didn’t get the clutch all the way down. He said that he thought it was a gear cable, he had changed one, he had another but hadn’t got around to doing it, and he thought that was he issue.
I wasn’t able to drive it myself ( he was an older gent who didn’t seem willing to let me have a drive)
It didn’t do it every change up or down the box, but it did seem as if he was trying to locate the lever?
Is the cable a possible cause, or could he be hiding an ugly gearbox fault?
There was also a squeak from the near side front, I’m assuming it was a dry joint of sorts.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Mike
As per my intro I’m looking at buying an MR2 MK2
I went to look at one yesterday that was really good in the body but had a couple of things that I could use a bit of info on.
The main concern was when he changed gear, 2nd to 3rd I think? It made a grinding noise as if he didn’t get the clutch all the way down. He said that he thought it was a gear cable, he had changed one, he had another but hadn’t got around to doing it, and he thought that was he issue.
I wasn’t able to drive it myself ( he was an older gent who didn’t seem willing to let me have a drive)
It didn’t do it every change up or down the box, but it did seem as if he was trying to locate the lever?
Is the cable a possible cause, or could he be hiding an ugly gearbox fault?
There was also a squeak from the near side front, I’m assuming it was a dry joint of sorts.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Mike
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
cant help with gear issue, but without a test drive how can you be sure brakes, steering etc are ok
i would walk away
i would walk away
Not Plan B again!! Why don't we just go with plan B in the first place?
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
If I go back for a 2nd look, I will insist on a drive.
It’s a nice car, he bought it new, it’s not mint but no rust, which has to be a good thing.
It’s got 120k on the clock with full service history. He thinks it is way better than it is for sure. It’s absolutely bog standard as well, which I must be honest I prefer it that way, even if it does get some updates or upgrades in my son’s ownership.
I just need to rule out a bad gearbox.
It’s a nice car, he bought it new, it’s not mint but no rust, which has to be a good thing.
It’s got 120k on the clock with full service history. He thinks it is way better than it is for sure. It’s absolutely bog standard as well, which I must be honest I prefer it that way, even if it does get some updates or upgrades in my son’s ownership.
I just need to rule out a bad gearbox.
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
Chances are the gearbox is stuffed.
Owners just don't change the engine oil enough, let alone the gearbox oil. Basically most owners never change it and it just eventually kills the gearbox.
Look at the service history and what oil was used. It needs changing about every 60,000km unless they used a full synthetic.
Switching to a full synthetic like Castrol Syntrax might save it or extend the life a little. It radically changes the shifting weight required on the gearstick by about half over the factory oil.
Ideally you really need to be in a position to drain the gearbox oil and check it. That will tell you immediately the current state of the gearbox.
If the oil has gone a dark colour and its full of fine shiny metal particles you can see suspended in bright sunshine the gearbox its bad. Then let it settle for a bit and decant the oil into another container. If there is metal at the bottom of your original container its toast.
Ideally the oil should come out looking like someone just put new oil in.
Owners just don't change the engine oil enough, let alone the gearbox oil. Basically most owners never change it and it just eventually kills the gearbox.
Look at the service history and what oil was used. It needs changing about every 60,000km unless they used a full synthetic.
Switching to a full synthetic like Castrol Syntrax might save it or extend the life a little. It radically changes the shifting weight required on the gearstick by about half over the factory oil.
Ideally you really need to be in a position to drain the gearbox oil and check it. That will tell you immediately the current state of the gearbox.
If the oil has gone a dark colour and its full of fine shiny metal particles you can see suspended in bright sunshine the gearbox its bad. Then let it settle for a bit and decant the oil into another container. If there is metal at the bottom of your original container its toast.
Ideally the oil should come out looking like someone just put new oil in.
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
not wishing to sound too negative, but when you say no rust, what you mean is no visible rust
mine had what looked like a little surface rust on the sills, went for a complete respray both sills needed a bit of welding, and when the rear bumper was removed the area it uncover was completely shot
also found holes behind rear wheel arch covers in the wheel arches
few pictures on first page of my rust
https://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forum/125/168326.html
mine had what looked like a little surface rust on the sills, went for a complete respray both sills needed a bit of welding, and when the rear bumper was removed the area it uncover was completely shot
also found holes behind rear wheel arch covers in the wheel arches
few pictures on first page of my rust
https://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forum/125/168326.html
Not Plan B again!! Why don't we just go with plan B in the first place?
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
It could be the cable but it could also also be worn synchro rings. Wouldn't expect it at only 120k miles but it depends on how much mechanical sympathy the owner has. The service history alone won't tell you anything about that.Hotrod wrote: ↑08/06/21 10:14 The main concern was when he changed gear, 2nd to 3rd I think? It made a grinding noise as if he didn’t get the clutch all the way down. He said that he thought it was a gear cable, he had changed one, he had another but hadn’t got around to doing it, and he thought that was he issue.
I wasn’t able to drive it myself ( he was an older gent who didn’t seem willing to let me have a drive)
It didn’t do it every change up or down the box, but it did seem as if he was trying to locate the lever?
Is the cable a possible cause, or could he be hiding an ugly gearbox fault?
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
Thanks for the info guys. I was hoping for more positive news.
If he has managed to keep it 30 years in good condition and bog standard, there is a good chance he is telling the truth.
It is due a timing belt, which he has, and the the gear cable, I have seen both.
It has had new sills in 2018 a new rad and thicker front mesh to protect it.
It’s all pie in the sky though as he wouldn’t sell it to me, saying he might get more on auction. So I’m going to have to bid or hope his reserve isn’t reached.
If he has managed to keep it 30 years in good condition and bog standard, there is a good chance he is telling the truth.
It is due a timing belt, which he has, and the the gear cable, I have seen both.
It has had new sills in 2018 a new rad and thicker front mesh to protect it.
It’s all pie in the sky though as he wouldn’t sell it to me, saying he might get more on auction. So I’m going to have to bid or hope his reserve isn’t reached.
Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
Update: as luck would have it, I bought the car.
After driving it myself, the issue is nowhere near as bad as it looked while the owner was driving. It goes through all the gears fine, doesn’t jump out of any either. The problem is going into fifth, if you you don’t put enough weight on the stick it can slightly grind the gear going in, it only did it once with me on a quick change up, but the rest of the time it was fine.
He actually gave me 3 litres of transmission oil for its next change, plus the gear cable, timing belt, bulbs and fuses and a fan belt, all new.
So here’s to a happy ownership.
After driving it myself, the issue is nowhere near as bad as it looked while the owner was driving. It goes through all the gears fine, doesn’t jump out of any either. The problem is going into fifth, if you you don’t put enough weight on the stick it can slightly grind the gear going in, it only did it once with me on a quick change up, but the rest of the time it was fine.
He actually gave me 3 litres of transmission oil for its next change, plus the gear cable, timing belt, bulbs and fuses and a fan belt, all new.
So here’s to a happy ownership.
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
congrats on your purchase
Not Plan B again!! Why don't we just go with plan B in the first place?
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
It’s more important to lose a minute in life than your life in a minute
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
5th gear crunch is a known specific issue (an internet search using that term will find several threads).Hotrod wrote: ↑11/06/21 8:20 <<snip>>
It goes through all the gears fine, doesn’t jump out of any either. The problem is going into fifth, if you you don’t put enough weight on the stick it can slightly grind the gear going in, it only did it once with me on a quick change up, but the rest of the time it was fine.
Avoidance techniques:
- Don't rush gear changes. It's quite unnecessary for road driving.
- Use rev matching (up and down the 'box). The synchro rings will thank you for it.
- Do a transmission oil change*
* Check the service history and what oil was last used. I would probably do one anyway on a s/h car.
Preventive maintenance is always the cheaper option.
Btw you don't mention which Revision you have. Also is it n/a or turbo.
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
Pictures, hmm how do I go about that?
It’s an early car, no power steering, not the best colour being red, but it is shiny at the moment, just need to stay on top of it.
It’s absolutely bog standard with leather interior.
List of things that my son has already told me that need changing, steering wheel, needs new bigger wheels, front splitter, sides, etc etc, you can see where this is going.
It’s an early car, no power steering, not the best colour being red, but it is shiny at the moment, just need to stay on top of it.
It’s absolutely bog standard with leather interior.
List of things that my son has already told me that need changing, steering wheel, needs new bigger wheels, front splitter, sides, etc etc, you can see where this is going.
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Re: Knowledge required, gears grinding.
The recommended interval for a transmission fluid change is every 15k miles.
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"
HM wrote: TonyleFrog aka "The Fog Penetrator"