MK2 sill repair
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
No progress this weekend, but I've taken some pic's of the work so far.
The holes drilled for the plug welds, I've used 6mm holes myself as the smaller 4mm punch holes used for plug welding I find sometimes fill and don't penetrate, plug welding these 4mm holes with the mig you hold the torch 90 degree and pull the trigger and hold it steady. With the 6mm I'll rotate the torch till its filled giving it more chance of penetrating and a stronger hold.
Rear jacking point, I've used a round file to create the same shape as the original.
Quite a few plug welds to do, these are about 20mm apart.
Front jacking point, the pilot holes were drilled first then the sill was offered up to the car, and I found the holes needed to be just a bit higher in this front area, the lower pilots will be fill with the mig.
I'll need to drill the drainage holes, I measured the originals and got 14mm I've got some grommets that are for 13mm so 13mm it'll be.
Made the end cap for the sill, and joggled the end of the sill.
The next job is to drill the drainage holes, weld the end cap on and then paint the inner part of the sill, I'll us weld through on the edges and the rest with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, let that dry then start fabricating the rear inner lower arch area.
The holes drilled for the plug welds, I've used 6mm holes myself as the smaller 4mm punch holes used for plug welding I find sometimes fill and don't penetrate, plug welding these 4mm holes with the mig you hold the torch 90 degree and pull the trigger and hold it steady. With the 6mm I'll rotate the torch till its filled giving it more chance of penetrating and a stronger hold.
Rear jacking point, I've used a round file to create the same shape as the original.
Quite a few plug welds to do, these are about 20mm apart.
Front jacking point, the pilot holes were drilled first then the sill was offered up to the car, and I found the holes needed to be just a bit higher in this front area, the lower pilots will be fill with the mig.
I'll need to drill the drainage holes, I measured the originals and got 14mm I've got some grommets that are for 13mm so 13mm it'll be.
Made the end cap for the sill, and joggled the end of the sill.
The next job is to drill the drainage holes, weld the end cap on and then paint the inner part of the sill, I'll us weld through on the edges and the rest with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, let that dry then start fabricating the rear inner lower arch area.
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
well done mate very nice job there i must say
dreading doing mine
you dont fancy doing them do you :whistling:
i will be getting mine next week i hope my problem is i am not a welder(not welded in years to be honest) i was going to to use a mates arc welder to weld em on
when i come to do mine i will have get some more info off you mate
but still cracking job so far
dreading doing mine
you dont fancy doing them do you :whistling:
i will be getting mine next week i hope my problem is i am not a welder(not welded in years to be honest) i was going to to use a mates arc welder to weld em on
when i come to do mine i will have get some more info off you mate
but still cracking job so far
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hi xviiax, I wouldn't use an arch welder mate, use a mig if you can get hold of one much better welder for the thinner metal, I've not welded for many years either, but after reading what the chaps on this website and forum http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ it gives you the confidence to have a go yourself, you'll be on the right tracks if you follow their advise. One thing that you will need just incase is a fire extinguisher! and it may seem obvious but just work with safety in mind at all times mate.
I've been working on this for quite a few months now, but it's been the experimenting work, working out what will fit the easiest and fabricating that's taken the time, plus I only get about 3-4 hours on a Saturday to work on her, but when it comes the the N/S all the parts will fabricated ready and I'll know what sill I'll be using! hopefully that side will be sorted quickly.
Don't forget that I have cut the inner rear bottom arch out, and I'll be positioning the sill in place (not welded in) to use it as a jig, to fabricate the inner part, I'll then take the sill off and weld the new inner rear bottom arch in.
I've been working on this for quite a few months now, but it's been the experimenting work, working out what will fit the easiest and fabricating that's taken the time, plus I only get about 3-4 hours on a Saturday to work on her, but when it comes the the N/S all the parts will fabricated ready and I'll know what sill I'll be using! hopefully that side will be sorted quickly.
Don't forget that I have cut the inner rear bottom arch out, and I'll be positioning the sill in place (not welded in) to use it as a jig, to fabricate the inner part, I'll then take the sill off and weld the new inner rear bottom arch in.
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hmmm you put me off now
looks like you will have to come do them for me after all
looks like you will have to come do them for me after all
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hello xvillax, I've not be able to work on the 2 last weekend because of being too busy a work, but this weekend I've managed to weld the end cap on to the sill and drill the 13mm drainage holes, I've also painted the inner side with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and painted the outer parts that have been welded on with etch primer just to keep rust out.
I've also been working on the templets for the bottom inner sill area where the sill meets, on the original the two parts meet are sandwiched together at the bottom, if water did get into this area it would be trapped as there is no drainage in this area either, so I've come up with an idea of making this area a depth of about 10mm clearance between the two which gives you the room to put another drainage hole at the end of the sill, it might workout!
I'll try and get some pic's sorted.
I've also been working on the templets for the bottom inner sill area where the sill meets, on the original the two parts meet are sandwiched together at the bottom, if water did get into this area it would be trapped as there is no drainage in this area either, so I've come up with an idea of making this area a depth of about 10mm clearance between the two which gives you the room to put another drainage hole at the end of the sill, it might workout!
I'll try and get some pic's sorted.
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Just a few pic's of the progress so far.
Welded the end cap on to the sill and drilled the 13mm drainage holes.
Scanned the templates in then used illustrator to draw the plans, then printed them on some card and made these to show what I'm rambling on about!
This is made up of three parts.
This shows the rear of the template.
And hopefully this shows the gap between the sheet metal that I mentioned before, also the extra drainage hole that's shown on the illustrated sill over the top of the template (the gray bit).
just got to make this in 20 gauge sheet now!
Welded the end cap on to the sill and drilled the 13mm drainage holes.
Scanned the templates in then used illustrator to draw the plans, then printed them on some card and made these to show what I'm rambling on about!
This is made up of three parts.
This shows the rear of the template.
And hopefully this shows the gap between the sheet metal that I mentioned before, also the extra drainage hole that's shown on the illustrated sill over the top of the template (the gray bit).
just got to make this in 20 gauge sheet now!
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hi Trev. The attached picture shows the extra vertical flange behind the sill which is fitted to the T Bar body. To fit the new sill another line of weld holes will need to be drilled in the sill to pickup this extra flange. I'm not sure I want to do that. Thinking of fabricating an angle 20mm by 20mm to fit along the lower flange and up onto the vertical flange. Weld this in place before the sill is offered up. It will mean an extra thinkness of metal along the lower flange. What do you think?
The second picture is the remains of the inner structure at the rear. I think this is the same as yours?
Brian
The second picture is the remains of the inner structure at the rear. I think this is the same as yours?
Brian
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hi Trev,
My sills arrived today. They are Astra Mk1 4 door and made by Imperial Panels, think they might be in Clacton. They look identical to yours from Hadrians. Where did you start front or back? I mean did you trim any off the front end, match the profile to the existing MR2 sill at the front and then work backwards? Or did you start at the back? Brian
My sills arrived today. They are Astra Mk1 4 door and made by Imperial Panels, think they might be in Clacton. They look identical to yours from Hadrians. Where did you start front or back? I mean did you trim any off the front end, match the profile to the existing MR2 sill at the front and then work backwards? Or did you start at the back? Brian
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Hi Brian, many thanks for the info for the T Bar extra strength panel, I've got the sunroof version, does anyone know if this is missing from all sunroof cars?
I started from the back and where the bottom flange finished on the car the bend to the long sill flange met up then I marked the front where I needed trim, not forgetting to leave some to tuck into the original sill after I joggled the front of the sill.
I started from the back and where the bottom flange finished on the car the bend to the long sill flange met up then I marked the front where I needed trim, not forgetting to leave some to tuck into the original sill after I joggled the front of the sill.
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Well, I've been working on that rear inner lower arch area this Saturday, and I have to say it wasn't easy, up to now it's been the most difficult part to fabricate.
Placed the card version in the area. It looks to fit quite well at this stage!
I cut my template out of card again to draw around on the sheet metal.
Cutting out was easy enough but the small cutouts for the folds in the panel to the right in the pic below was quite tricky, had to spend some time getting this right using a combination of cutters and files.
Started folding these parts.
This Joggler is one of those tools that I have had for a few years and always comes in handy to create a step.
Just an old bolt with a slit in it with the right depth that I needed, to bend the edge.
After all that, I ended up with this lot.
I took these parts and placed them in the area with the sill in place as a jig, had to reshape the parts a bit but at least the main shape was there,
There was one part that I just could not get to work, it's the small part on the left in the pic below.
Made a new template for the small part and fabricated it.
I then tack welded the parts together then removed it to weld all the seams up.
With the sill in place again as a jig, the inner panel was tack welded in, removed the sill and welded the panel in from the outside.
I had to cut, fold and reshape some areas around the front area to make it fit, but at least it's better than what was there!
and I have something to weld to!
Hopefully next week I'll be welding the sill on.
Placed the card version in the area. It looks to fit quite well at this stage!
I cut my template out of card again to draw around on the sheet metal.
Cutting out was easy enough but the small cutouts for the folds in the panel to the right in the pic below was quite tricky, had to spend some time getting this right using a combination of cutters and files.
Started folding these parts.
This Joggler is one of those tools that I have had for a few years and always comes in handy to create a step.
Just an old bolt with a slit in it with the right depth that I needed, to bend the edge.
After all that, I ended up with this lot.
I took these parts and placed them in the area with the sill in place as a jig, had to reshape the parts a bit but at least the main shape was there,
There was one part that I just could not get to work, it's the small part on the left in the pic below.
Made a new template for the small part and fabricated it.
I then tack welded the parts together then removed it to weld all the seams up.
With the sill in place again as a jig, the inner panel was tack welded in, removed the sill and welded the panel in from the outside.
I had to cut, fold and reshape some areas around the front area to make it fit, but at least it's better than what was there!
and I have something to weld to!
Hopefully next week I'll be welding the sill on.
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Have to take my hat off to you mate
not sure when it comes to doing my'n i can do all that, i will be working out side
plus i dont have half the tools you have
but again top job there
not sure when it comes to doing my'n i can do all that, i will be working out side
plus i dont have half the tools you have
but again top job there
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
fair play guys im afraid i am not that good to do my own, mine is booked in tomorrow
for two new sills, drivers side rear arch, and a little bit in the rear quarters , hopefully be sorted by next weekend but it is costing me ........ but it will be worth it .
for two new sills, drivers side rear arch, and a little bit in the rear quarters , hopefully be sorted by next weekend but it is costing me ........ but it will be worth it .
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Topic author
Re: MK2 sill repair
Well the sill is welded on, but I've left the camera in the garage so no pic's just yet.
I'll try and get the camera soon to get some pic's up. So next week I'll be grinding the welds down, putting seam sealer around the inner arch areas that need it, then hopefully the weekend after the filler can go on to tidy up over the welds of the sill, then paint/stone-guard and lots of cavity wax.
I'll try and get the camera soon to get some pic's up. So next week I'll be grinding the welds down, putting seam sealer around the inner arch areas that need it, then hopefully the weekend after the filler can go on to tidy up over the welds of the sill, then paint/stone-guard and lots of cavity wax.