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Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there. Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
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So my MBC and vacuum pipe turned up yesterday.... Got the MBC from GTSChris and vac from eBay.
I was thinking about writing a detailed step by step 'how to' with pictures because when I was looking into it the info was hard to find without starting a tread. The info that's about maybe easy for a lot of people to understand but for the likes of me that are at the beginning of turbo knowledge, a detailed and car specific guide would be helpful.
I know there's is lots of info about it but as stated in my original post, there's nothing detailing step by step making it easy for people who don't really have a clue. It's taken me a while to fully understand what to do because there are so many that say it a different way which is confusing.
I'm not going to list a step by step as you need to be familier with the principals of the operation of a turbo before doing the conversion and also be aware that by increasing the boost you are getting rid of the factory over fueling which is effectivly the safty margin that Toyota builds in to cool the engine and allow for decreased fuel supply over time.
1. As pointed out the tubing needs to be as short as possible and ideally have a large internal diameter. I mounted the MBC to the TRD strut brace on a custom bracket held to the brace by stainless clamps.
2. The best way to stop the air from being released from the VSV valve is to cut the control wire at the ECU rather than physically have to block the tube to the VSV. Wire the ends to a 2 way connector and wire a short to the other side of the second connector and keep this in your tool kit along with a short bit of pipe to bypass the MBC. The advantage of an MBC is you can return it to stock boost in under 5 minutes to troubleshoot if you have to.Its the Blue wire with the orange stripe on a Rev 2 that controls the VSV.
3. Fit a wideband AFR to enable you to gradually increase the boost so you do not run lean. Really you do not want anything leaner than 13.5:1 WOT. An aftermarket boost gauge is a WASTE OF TIME for actually knowing whats going on in the combustion chamber. It will quite happily be showing you plenty of boost right up until your engine goes bang.
An aftermarket boost gauge is a WASTE OF TIME for actually knowing whats going on in the combustion chamber. It will quite happily be showing you plenty of boost right up until your engine goes bang.
Indeed. But then, it's just a dumb boost gauge, nothing more, nothing less. Although a wideband AFR will greatly increase the cost of the installation, it's pretty much the only thing between you and a lunched engine.
Not me, I'm not willing to take risks. I will only start pushing it when it's safer too, as said about AFR, oil gauges and such like. I can't afford to got blowing engines and what not. I got a bit annoyed couple days ago when I got done by a spaceship shaped Civic type R although I did slightly miss 3rd
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