start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
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Many subjects will have been discussed before. Please try the search function before starting a new thread.
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Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
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Topic author
start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
I just bought a mr2 non runner. So far i tested coil pack, got sparks, new cap/lead, got fuel in chamber, checked igntion timing, but the cambelt timing is 5 degrees instead of 0.
camshaft timing is spot on. but bottom crank is 5 degrees instead of 0, quite diffcult to tell if I look down directly.
Will that belt timing set on 5 degrees instead of 0 would cause cant idle/lumpy/shaky engine, made exhaust manifold red hot. or is there something i should check?
camshaft timing is spot on. but bottom crank is 5 degrees instead of 0, quite diffcult to tell if I look down directly.
Will that belt timing set on 5 degrees instead of 0 would cause cant idle/lumpy/shaky engine, made exhaust manifold red hot. or is there something i should check?
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Topic author
Re: start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
It'll put everything out. Crank position is the datum for everything else.
Never been there, but red hot exhaust mani on an NA suggests way too much ignition advance, possibly detonation causing knock sensor to come into play = rough idle?
See if you can view the timing end of the crank straight on -- parallax can easily cause you to screw up the timing.
Never been there, but red hot exhaust mani on an NA suggests way too much ignition advance, possibly detonation causing knock sensor to come into play = rough idle?
See if you can view the timing end of the crank straight on -- parallax can easily cause you to screw up the timing.
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Re: start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
I take it your checking the timing in diagnostic mode ?
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Topic author
Re: start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
Everything seem to be spot on. I checked the timing with dia port clipped.
It barely to catch run for few seconds then lowly idled to 500rpm...... dropping off..
I am replacing a distribtor from my spare engine.
What is baseline for dizzy setting? its sitting there looking good, inline with camshaft.
It barely to catch run for few seconds then lowly idled to 500rpm...... dropping off..
I am replacing a distribtor from my spare engine.
What is baseline for dizzy setting? its sitting there looking good, inline with camshaft.
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Topic author
Re: start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
It is most important that the cams should line up correctly with the notches and that crank should line up with the notch on the belt cover, if it isn't then the engine's going to run like crap because not only does it alter the way the dizzy distributes the spark the timing between the pistons and valves are going to be out of sync so make sure this is correct before doing anything else, take the wheel off and the under tray and have a look at where the crank is in comparison to the camshaft, you cant really get a proper view it it looking at it from above as the engines at an angle and it looks deceiving.
Once you have done that then set the timing to 10'BTDC if it still runs like crap then you either have crappy fuel or compression is down especially if everything else checks out ok
Once you have done that then set the timing to 10'BTDC if it still runs like crap then you either have crappy fuel or compression is down especially if everything else checks out ok
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Re: start over Cant idle very lumpy, shakey engine.
First thing to check with those symptoms is compression.
I'm trying to work out what you're saying about cam belt timing out but cam timing correct ?
Check cam timing against crank - if in doubt remove No.1 plug and drop a long screwdriver down to double check crank pulley marking is correct at TDC - damper pullies sometimes break the bond on the rubber and slip round giving incorrect timing marks.
To set ignition timing, link E1 & TE1 in diagnostic port and verify engine light is flashing (easy to not make a connection if you don't use proper connectors) and set at 10 degrees before.
I'm trying to work out what you're saying about cam belt timing out but cam timing correct ?
Check cam timing against crank - if in doubt remove No.1 plug and drop a long screwdriver down to double check crank pulley marking is correct at TDC - damper pullies sometimes break the bond on the rubber and slip round giving incorrect timing marks.
To set ignition timing, link E1 & TE1 in diagnostic port and verify engine light is flashing (easy to not make a connection if you don't use proper connectors) and set at 10 degrees before.