The dreaded seized calliper :(
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Many subjects will have been discussed before. Please try the search function before starting a new thread.
Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there.
Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
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Topic author
The dreaded seized calliper :(
A strange squeeling sound started today, that turned out to be the rear left brake pad level warning thingumabob... the other side has loads of meat left on the pad though. The side that was squealing was also much hotter than the other side.
Am I right in thinking this means seized calliper? I thought I'd notice a lack of power and it pulling to one side?
If it is, what's my best course of action?
I'm fairly confident with a spanner, but not sure I fancy trying to rebuild it myself; so I was thinking buying a recon unit would be the best bet? I'm more than confident enough to swap the callipers over. Do i need to do both sides though? or just the one?
Thanks
Am I right in thinking this means seized calliper? I thought I'd notice a lack of power and it pulling to one side?
If it is, what's my best course of action?
I'm fairly confident with a spanner, but not sure I fancy trying to rebuild it myself; so I was thinking buying a recon unit would be the best bet? I'm more than confident enough to swap the callipers over. Do i need to do both sides though? or just the one?
Thanks
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Could be the sliders mate this along with the caliper is a common problem on the 2.Best to get a recon caliper from ebay and they come with a 2yr warranty.
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Topic author
Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Any way to check the sliders? Is it the bolt between the two calliper parts you mean by that?
Can I just replace the one or do I need to replace both?
Can I just replace the one or do I need to replace both?
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Topic author
Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Replace just one caliper if needed, but check sliders first.
To check, remove the caliper then where the caliper bolts to the carrier there are 2 sliding rods inserted into the caliper. These should pull out with ease.
To check, remove the caliper then where the caliper bolts to the carrier there are 2 sliding rods inserted into the caliper. These should pull out with ease.
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Topic author
Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Try cleaning up the pins and silicone grease. If that doesn't do it, brakeparts co.uk do exchange rebuilt calipers.
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Rebuilt the rear calipers myself, however it is quite time consuming and you need a new seal kit from Toyota. I did not rebuild the rear of the caliper that integrates into the handbrake cable as this requires some special tools and as the oring was not leaking I left it alone.
What can happen is that you get corrosion on the caliper on the inside of the holes that have the rubber inserts for the sliders. What this does is effectively reduce the diameter of the hole and put pressure on the rubber which in term then grips the slider. They can get to the point they grip solid.
The pistons also cease but a good clean and rust nutralise, reassemble and they are good to go.
Its also very common for one or both the handbrake cables to cease solid so both cables were replaced on mine. Cutting open the cables reveled that several strands had broken and they effectively "Fish Hook" into the cable outer so they cease solid.
What can happen is that you get corrosion on the caliper on the inside of the holes that have the rubber inserts for the sliders. What this does is effectively reduce the diameter of the hole and put pressure on the rubber which in term then grips the slider. They can get to the point they grip solid.
The pistons also cease but a good clean and rust nutralise, reassemble and they are good to go.
Its also very common for one or both the handbrake cables to cease solid so both cables were replaced on mine. Cutting open the cables reveled that several strands had broken and they effectively "Fish Hook" into the cable outer so they cease solid.
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
If you do have a seizing caliper, I can also vouch for the eBay refurbished units. Good price at £60 each, then they return £15 if you send in your old calipers.
Ken, via TapaTalk 2.
Ken, via TapaTalk 2.
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
There is a guide in the KY2 for a MK1 so ignore the part numbers. However the design for the rear calipers is very similar on the MK2 (& MK3) so will give some useful pointers:
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-know ... kbartid=81
Make sure you use the correct grease and not copper grease. The Toyota stuff is only £10 a tube and is by far the best grease I've ever used.
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-know ... kbartid=81
Make sure you use the correct grease and not copper grease. The Toyota stuff is only £10 a tube and is by far the best grease I've ever used.
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
+1 I had mine from them over 2 years with no trouble.not worth the hassle and time rebuilding themPsyKen wrote:If you do have a seizing caliper, I can also vouch for the eBay refurbished units. Good price at £60 each, then they return £15 if you send in your old calipers.
Ken, via TapaTalk 2.
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Topic author
Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Dismantled it today. The slider bolts seemed very stiff, but after a bit of a clean, and a few pushes its loosened up loads. Pressed the brakes very very gently, and my glamorous assistant confirmed that the piston moved.
So pretty sure it was the sliders causing the problem.
Will reassemble when I get some new pads and some silicone grease.
Read on here you need to slacken the handbrake cables when you wind the piston in, how/where do I do this? Apparently needs to be wound back out 180 degrees for the handbrake mechanism to work too?
Cheers for the help and advice chaps.
So pretty sure it was the sliders causing the problem.
Will reassemble when I get some new pads and some silicone grease.
Read on here you need to slacken the handbrake cables when you wind the piston in, how/where do I do this? Apparently needs to be wound back out 180 degrees for the handbrake mechanism to work too?
Cheers for the help and advice chaps.
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Topic author
Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
Never done it, but it's well documented in the Big Green Book. I'd do a copy and paste job, but it'd take me much longer than for you to download it. Did I say it was detailed?
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Re: The dreaded seized calliper :(
yes the MR2 big green book - BGBdannyboolahlah wrote:Big green book?
http://mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2-knowledg ... kbartid=86
mechanical and electrical diagrams etc
also trouble shooting guides - in know your 2
Highland Drive 13/14/15/17/18/19
JAE 07/09/10/11/12/13/14/15/16/17
Japfest 09/11/12/13/16/19
Wales runs 14/15/16/17/18