No start unless no AFM *FIXED*- Rev 2 Turbo

[MRturboTom]

URL=http://s43.photobucket.com/user/hobbyon ... 1.jpg.html][/URL]

Looks like resistor plug. The finn'd alloy thing.

Here's mine

[Chris_D]

Sounds very much like a mixture / AFM problem. Either the ECU not seeing the AFM correctly, or a big leak of air into the system after the AFM. When starting, the ECU injects a generic quantity of fuel so will run without AFM for a few seconds.

If you have an AFM fault code, and the AFM appears to test out correctly, try resetting the ecu (pull the fuse for 10 seconds with ign off) and see if the fault code comes back.

Typical air leaks are split in intake hose afm - turbo (these are often difficult to spot if it's the corrugated type), split in any of the other big hoses via intercooler, dump valve stuck open, oil breather or idle up valve hoses detached or split.

if the AFM fault code persists and the AFM tests out ok, trace the wiring back to the ECU looking for faults.

[Shaleskin]

Looks like resistor plug. The finn'd alloy thing.

Here's mine

Annoyingly I have a plug going to that resister block which looks identical to yours! The cable I'm trying to find where it goes to branches off from the bulk of wiring in-between the Fuse box and canister/strut.

Sounds very much like a mixture / AFM problem. Either the ECU not seeing the AFM correctly, or a big leak of air into the system after the AFM. When starting, the ECU injects a generic quantity of fuel so will run without AFM for a few seconds.

If you have an AFM fault code, and the AFM appears to test out correctly, try resetting the ecu (pull the fuse for 10 seconds with ign off) and see if the fault code comes back.

Typical air leaks are split in intake hose afm - turbo (these are often difficult to spot if it's the corrugated type), split in any of the other big hoses via intercooler, dump valve stuck open, oil breather or idle up valve hoses detached or split.

if the AFM fault code persists and the AFM tests out ok, trace the wiring back to the ECU looking for faults.

To be honest, I'm looking at it to be AFM as it started randomly missing, then eventually started to drive like it was running out of fuel if you put the throttle down more than an inch and it would backfire horrifically, I mean the sound of it was like anti lag in operation, But you could hear the turbo spool but just not accelerate, really bizarre sensation. Then it started showing the 2 codes for AFM and now won't actually start unless I have my foot all the way down on throttle and clutch.

Will double check the AFM's readings now...

[MRturboTom]

The symptoms you describe I have had when my afm plug has been loose so does sound afm related

[Shaleskin]

The symptoms you describe I have had when my afm plug has been loose so does sound afm related

In that case, I'm going to try and tighten it or clean connections etc then report back in a few days.

Thanks for the help MrTurboTom + others.

[Shaleskin]

Ok, trying to get to the bottom of this. I'm still not getting an EML popping up when I turn the key, I've taken the ECU out and checked the board for any melting/gooey substance/bad capacitor, it was immaculate.

So it's not the ECU, I've swapped over a fuse that had blown in the clifford alarm (650) and that hasn't done anything. Earths have been sanded down and cleaned up.
I've also tested the EFI relay which is also good and the fuse looks healthy too.

Really stumped now, any more suggestions?

Ps. AFM had bad connection again so original before this EML issue the culprit was the AFM and have now use the screws on the front to VERY finely adjust it so it now gives me the readings again.

[MRturboTom]

I'd need to have a look at a wiring diagram tbh for the eml

[Chris_D]

The engine light must have worked previously for you to read fault codes. Maybe try the E1-TE1 link again to see if the light comes on then.
If the light still doesn't work, try to re-trace your steps between now and when it did work and double check you've replaced everything you undid.

[Shaleskin]

The engine light must have worked previously for you to read fault codes. Maybe try the E1-TE1 link again to see if the light comes on then.
If the light still doesn't work, try to re-trace your steps between now and when it did work and double check you've replaced everything you undid.

It did and I have tried again today, the light doesn't turn on. The only thing I did before the light stopped responding is take out the EFI relay to wipe the codes off and then put it back in, accidentally while the key was on. Since then it's not showing

I'll check if the BGB has a detailed wiring diagram for me to trace.

[MRturboTom]

Check the relay pins haven't pushed out of the plug. Also check efi fuse contacts. Drag test them if you can

[Chris_D]

try unplugging & re-plugging a few times to wipe the contacts. Also check the recepticles in the socket haven't pushed out as above.

The following should give you a pinout for your ECU, try checking Bat+ and +B (on RHS of ECU) both have 12V on them with ignition on.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/831 ... iagram.png

[PaulWoods]

I think your issues now are related to your poor earth before, when the starter doesn't get a good earth it will use one of the wires on the EFI relay as a ground path, i have seen this first hand on many Mk2 Mr2s.

Take the bottom off your engine bay fusebox and inspect the wiring going to the underside of the EFI relay, if it has melted then that is what has happened during your poor earth issue and is now causing further problems.

The cure is to strip your chassis harness back to uncover all of the melted wires, for info i have seen this extend as far back as the boot wiring, not a nice job.

Moral of the story= engine earthing is vital or it causes big problems.

[PaulWoods]

Another thing that might help, when the AFM goes bad the CEL won't illuminate.

[notroubleclubber]

Another thing that might help, when the AFM goes bad the CEL won't illuminate.

Agreed on the above.
mine did this - another afm and all started working again.